Coronavirus Update: 55 cases

As of March 15th, the total number of cases of coronavirus in Panama has risen to 55.  Also reported are the first 2 cases of the virus in the country's interior.  One case in Colón and one in Santiago de Veraguas.  Eighty percent of these cases are reported as mild.

Effective March 16th,  Panama's airport will be closed to tourists.  Nationals and residents arriving from outside the country will be placed on a mandatory 14 day home quarantine. Closure of all business establishments has also been ordered, except for supermarkets, pharmacies, medical centers and establishments that sell health products, gasoline and food.  Restaurant dining areas will be closed, but food delivery services will be permitted.  Personnel are requested to wear masks.    Access to beaches, public pools, rivers and swimming holes are prohibited.  Children's parks, theaters, party halls, sports facilities, and convention centers are also ordered closed.  Establishments that are allowed to remain open will be expected to limit the number of persons in their interiors to less than 50, violators will be sanctioned, and there will be police monitoring for compliance.    In a situation where lines may form to enter a business or establishment, people must  maintain a distance of 1.5 meters between each other.  

Panamanians in Panama City have been instructed NOT to travel to the interior of the country and a warning has been issued that if these instructions are not observed, the possibility of  health safety barriers may be entertained. 

Statistics involving current confirmed cases are as follows:  44 cases classified as mild and on home isolation.  10 cases hospitalized, 6 in critical care and 4 on a regular ward.  30 women are affected and 25 men are affected.  

Beautiful Downtown Boquete

The rains have been heavy in Boquete since May, with July and August feeling more like October and November.   Lloyd Cripe's Boquete Weather website has reported total Boquete rainfall through August 2017 as  running somewhere between 78 inches and 212 inches, depending upon the focus area.  Since there are no gauges for the Alto Boquete area, I can't speak for my neighborhood,  except to say it sure feels more like 212 inches than 78 inches!  We're about level with Jaramillo Abajo, though, so I'd wager a guess that we've received somewhere around 140 inches.   (Perhaps I should contact him and offer to monitor rainfall data for next year...)  Here's the link to that website should you want to check it out yourself.  

http://www.boqueteweather.com/watchers/bww_update_091917.html

Bottom line, the worst is yet to come.  However, when I think about Houston and Florida and the Caribean Islands, I realize that things could be a lot worse and I need to be thankful for having electricity, running water, and a dry house to come home to.   At least the majority of the time!

Construction is at an all time high in Boquete, despite the rains and inclement weather. Some of it is preparation for installation of the new water system, and some is due to business centers and generalized expansion.  All the downtown roads have been torn up and there are ruts and potholes and puddles and traffic and rocks everywhere. Panamanians don't believe in driving normal speed over roadways that aren't completely level and paved, so traffic slows to 2-5 mph with vehicles weaving in and out of the oncoming lanes when it means they can avoid running over a tiny bump or getting a splash of muddy water on their Hyundai tires.  Funny thing---they recklessly speed along the David highway when they should exercise caution, but exercise undue caution if they think a bump might "rattle" their  auto's suspension.  Got to get one's priorities straight, I imagine...

For the curious who believe a picture is worth a thousand words, I offer the following:

Wondering what things will be like for the November festivities and annual parade.  Or for the January Feria de las Flores y el Café.   Who knows.  Maybe it will be fixed by then, but it seems to be a major undertaking and only a minimal time distance away.  We shall see.   Also worth mentioning, although I failed to  take photos---Los Naranjos is a huge mess, as well.  There are detours to get to Cafe Ruiz, and the mud and yuck is obscene.    Hate to say it, but Boquete is currently not the scenic spot it's known for.  The end result will be well worth it, but this "ugly hair" stage is pretty bad.  If I didn't live here, I certainly wouldn't come for the November parade or the 2018 Feria.  Just sayin'...

Maybe things will be better by the Jazz Festival in February.    

A Word About Snakes

It's forever being said by experts that one has a better chance of being struck by lightning  in Panama than by being bitten by a poisonous snake.  Perhaps this is true, but to date my "close encounters of the reptile kind"  have been more frequent than those of the lightning kind. Take this beautiful fellow featured above....

It was 10:15 am on a weekday and the sun was shining brightly.  My two cats were up and about---one in the outside entryway peering in the front screen door, and the other inside peering out the front screen door.  Both were poised and ready to pounce.  I smiled briefly at what I perceived to be a sisterly staring contest.  

I was expecting a friend any minute, so I opened the door to go out and unlock the yard gate. My doing so pushed the outside kitty away from the front entrance just as this large coral snake slithered underneath the door to the spot she had been occupying.  Although she headed after it, my screams frightened both cats and thankfully, they took off.  I seized my trusty camera---always nearby---and snapped this pic.  It was a good thing I did, because in the time it took to get a male neighbor's attention, the snake had disappeared. Two brave men with machetes responded to my calls. They peered into and around nearby plants. No sign of a snake.  I provided photographic proof of what I had seen, so the three of us persisted until the culprit was located behind a piece of patio furniture.  

I wish we could have left it alone to live another lifetime, but the neighborhood is full of cats and dogs and small children, and our houses aren't all that far apart.  The men killed it and buried in in the yard.  (Something about burying it is supposed to detract other snakes from coming around....an old wives tale, I suppose.)   I felt a bit guilty, as it was a beautiful snake.  But I had learned my lesson from a previous experience.  

About a year earlier, I was sitting with a guest in the living room when I noticed what I thought was an earthworm crawling along the baseboard.  I grabbed the broom and dustpan to sweep it up, but when I got closer it reared it's head and curled into strike position.  Realizing it was a snake, I abandoned the hand-held dustpan and swept it into a shovel.  My friend urged me to kill it, but it was so small I couldn't do it.  I took it outside to examine it closely before releasing it in the back lot.  After my friend left I did an internet search to find snakes that had markings resembling my infantile visitor.  The only snake that came close---actually it was a true match---was the Bushmaster.  Right down to the two-toned color of it's head.  Sometimes I still worry it may be living somewhere in that back lot...

It's hard to find precise information regarding snakes in Panama, but most sources will cite between 125 and 145 species of snakes in this country.  Of that number, only 25 species are considered venomous.  They fall into three family groupings; pit vipers, corals, and sea snakes.  

Sea snakes are rarely dangerous to humans unless caught and handled.  Their venom is a potent neurotoxin, but they reserve it for small fish and other prey.

Coral snakes are generally timid and inoffensive unless provoked.  They are burrowing snakes and usually don't grow longer than 30 inches.  Other snakes resemble the coral snake but are completely innocuous to humans.   Here is a wikipedia photo I found of a kingsnake [serpiente rey] that shares the same colors as a coral snake.  Their coloring is similar but the bands alternate as red, black, yellow or white, black, red.   A mnemonic used to distinguish between the two is "Red touches black, friend of Jack.  Red touches yellow can kill a fellow"

Unfortunately authorities always warn that this rhyme only applies to snakes native to North America and that coral snakes in Central and South America can have a variety of patterns and colors, including the red-touching-black pattern of the harmless North American kingsnake.  

Pit vipers are the snake family most responsible for bites to humans in Panama. Around 2000 cases of snakebite are reported annually.  The province that reports the most is Veraguas, which averages around 500 a year.  Vipers are aggressive, even after having eaten and while molting.  Several expats have reported sighting pit vipers in their homes, garages, or terraces.  

Probably the most prevalent venomous viper reported in Boquete and surrounding areas is the fer-de-lance.  (Bothrops asper)  Locals call it "Equis" or "Terciopelo" or "Barba amarilla".  It is responsible for about 95% of all snakebites in Panama.  It's toxin is hemolytic and causes symptoms of hypotension, nausea, vomiting, severe pain, local necrosis and renal compromise. I have never seen one, but know people who have.  One friend, living in a developed, upscale, gated community discovered a fer-de-lance coiled up in the corner of her sewing basket !

The other three vipers in Panama considered most dangerous to humans because of the potency of their venom are: 

The eyelash viper (Bothriechis schlegelii), locally known as "Bocaracá", the bushmaster 

(Lachesis stenophrys), locally known as "Verrugosa" or "Cascabel muda", and the hog-nosed viper (Porthidium nasutum) locally known as "Patoca".    

I will need to do additional research before commenting on their regional habitats, but all are found in humid, tropical forest areas, which include the provinces of Chiriqui, Veraguas, Cocle, and Panama Oeste.

A Paso Canoas Lodging Alternative

Most people would agree that Paso Canoas isn't exactly a vacation hot spot.  But many expats still go there for a variety of reasons.  After playing the tourist game for more years than I care to admit, I'm no longer obligated to make these trips, but they've sort of become a quarterly routine for me and I still like to regularly shop there.   I headed out two days ago and made my first stop at La Morenita as usual to drop off the car and check in.   Vilka greeted me warmly and then with a chagrinned expression said she had hoped I wouldn't be showing up this month. Apparently the hostal was full and there wasn't even a spare sofa to offer me.  She explained that the stranded Cubans had filled up the place and she was under government contract to give them priority lodging.  She expected things to lighten up in March.  In her usual, attentive fashion though, she called a friend who was able to put me up at their hotel. She said the name of the place was Las Canarias, and it was in the town center.  

Having a good idea of what central Paso Canoas hotels were like, I was less than enthusiastic about staying anywhere in town.   But Vilka assured me the place was decent. When I got there I was pleasantly surprised.  It's located about 300 meters south of the Panamanian immigration building on the road heading toward Puerto Armuellas.  If you follow that road, you will pass a Pio Pio place, a Melo store, a Banco Nacional branch, and then reach a strip mall across from a gas station and automotive repair / tire place.  

The hotel residencial Las Canarias is actually two facilities, one on the Panamanian side and one on the Costa Rican side of the border.  The hotel on the Panamanian side,  which is the one on the Puerto Armuellas road and is shown in the photo above, is the more expensive of the two. But the price differences are minimal ---around a $10 per room (and you get a lot more space for that $10).  

I was warmly greeted by name at the reception desk when I walked in.  The attendant spoke flawless English and I learned his father is Panamanian and his mother British, so he grew up with both languages.  He considers himself Panamanian.  My room charge was $50.   There are available parking spots off the road in front of the hotel, and I was assured there is a watchman at night.  The hotel itself is upstairs over the strip mall. Downstairs, next to the hotel entrance, is a small coffee shop.   

I asked about nearby restaurants for a more substantial meal and learned that their  Costa Rican facility, located 1.5 blocks away, offered home-cooked typical dishes, and so I decided to head there for dinner after some shopping.  

The rooms are  clean, spacious, and nicely decorated.  A standard room comes with two queen beds, private bath, air conditioning, cable television, hot water with great water pressure, and a small seating area.  There is a spacious and comfortable lobby as well, with numerous magazines to peruse.  Compared to equally priced other downtown locations, this place has it hands down. 

After shopping, I headed over to the Costa Rican facility for dinner. When I walked in, there was an attractive lady sitting at one of the tables who greeted me and asked me if I was "la señora Charlotte." She told me the attendant at the other building had called to tell her I'd be coming.  She asked me what I'd like to eat and said she could offer me fish filet, pork chops, chicken, or beef with a salad and rice, beans, a "casado" or patacones.  I ordered fish with salad and patacones and ice cold Imperial, a Costa Rican beer that I like much more than any of the Panamanian brands.  The food was delicious, the service excellent, and $10 covered everything, including tax and tip. The next morning I chose to eat there again instead of in the downstairs coffee shop.  There is no menu.  You simply tell the cook what you want and she prepares it for you.  I had a ham, cheese and onion omelette with ripe plantains and natilla (a Costa Rican cultured cream) on the side, plus a huge cup of local coffee.  The meal was $ 8.50 including tax and tip. 

At the Costa Rican facility, parking is off road and enclosed and roofed.  I didn't ask to see a room there, however as I was leaving I looked into one being cleaned and found it acceptable, but much smaller and plainer than the one I stayed in on the Panama side. To my way of thinking, the extra $10 is worth it.   Here  are some photos of the Panamanian facility's entrance and lobby areas as well as a photo of my room. 

They also offer a deluxe suite that has a jacuzzi tub, king size bed, small refrigerator and sound system.  The charge for the suite is $ 100 per night. 

For additional photos or information, the link to their facebook page is below:

https://www.facebook.com/Hotel-Residencial-Las-Canarias-340456312712255/

Below are photos of the location, entrance, and lobby / restaurant facilities at the Costa Rican Las  Canarias location.

It's not easy to find decent lodging in this small border town.  I've tried several.  Prices don't vary all that much.  For the same room rates, you could do much worse.  Even if you were to pay more, you won't find locations better than either La Morenita or Las Canarias. And nothing beats their customer service.   Here's hoping things don't change anytime soon. 

Wandering Spider: The Final Answer

Two years ago I blogged about a large wandering spider I found inside my Chiriqui home at 3:00 am when my cats created a ruckus and woke me.  I sprayed it with insecticide and after confirming its demise, took some photos. Then I initiated a cursory internet research to identify its species and particulars.  Each time I saw a photo of a beast that resembled my deceased spider, the caption identified it as a phoneutria (Brazilian Wandering Spider).    Somewhere I read about another species (Cupienius) that was oft confused with the phoneutria but lacked the same reputation for being “deadly”.  I spent hours on the internet comparing photos of the two arachnid groupings, attempting to diagnose my night visitor as either harmless or evil. I didn’t want to believe it, but my spider more closely resembled photos of the phoneutria than it did the the cupienius.  

I then decided to call on the experts, and wrote to three online spider websites.  Two of the site masters confirmed my spider was a phoneutria based upon the arrangement of its eight eyes, the black line running down the dorsal carapace, (cephalothorax) and a series of 6 dice-like dots on the dorsal abdomen. Wikipedia also described these features as characteristic of phoneutria.  The last contacted website expert responded saying the spider couldn’t be classified without “seeing it in person”.  I surmised this respondent was too weird for further communication :-)

Given two out of three “experts” had confirmed my fears that the spider was a phoneutria, I published two posts alerting other expats to utilize caution in dealing with such critters in the home. Since then I’ve received occasional emails about the posts and I reiterated to those contacts that my information came from the internet and I had no first hand training or experience in arachnology.  However, I continued to warn people not to be too cavalier in their dealings with large spiders in the home.

Very recently, I received another email, only this time the author was not someone to be placated with generalities.  She wanted to know who I had contacted, why I reached my conclusion, and how dangerous the spider venom actually was.  She reported having found several similar spiders in her home nearby.  I gave her what information I had, but it wasn’t detailed enough and she was determined to get to the bottom of the matter.  I’d love to give her credit here for pursuing the issue, but don’t have permission to use her name.  Suffice it to say her initials are P.C. and I’m grateful for her energy and persistence.  She wrote to the Smithsonian in Panama City, and was directed to someone in Germany who subsequently directed her to another person in Brazil who then forwarded the information to the final expert.

Through photos P.C. sent of one of the spiders she sacrificed, the expert determined the spider was NOT a phoneutria but instead a Ctenus sinuatipes.  The Ctenus species are also wandering spiders, found frequently in Central America, but have not been declared to have “medically significant” venom.  This Brazilian expert recognized the distinctive features of the spider’s back legs (sinew-like) and mentioned this is what gave the species its name. 

I was interested in this information, but had doubts about the classification of my particular spider because it differed from the photos of P.C.’s spider.   I spent several more hours on the internet, trying to teach myself spider anatomy & physiology and blowing up photos of hairy arachnids to better examine magnified eyes and hair follicles.  It got to the point where if a breeze blew past the back of my neck, I jumped three feet.  I finally admitted I was in over my head and decided with P.C.'s blessing to contact this expert myself with photos of my spider. I digress here to mention that the expert is an arachnologist with a PhD, is affiliated with the California Academy of Sciences, has written numerous scientific papers, including a few dealing with the reclassification of tropical spiders, and is female, attractive, young, personable and, at minimum, bilingual.  She has been more than accommodating and helpful regarding our inquiries about the spiders.  I am very confident of and impressed by her knowledge.

This evening I received her response that the spider I’ve been calling a phoneutria for 2 years also happens to be a male Ctenus sinuatipes.  So what does that mean?  Essentially it means it is not considered "dangerous".  Male Ctenus sinuatipes generally live for about 1.5 years and die shortly after mating.  They are known to travel great distances to mate.  Females can live up to 10 years.  A bite from this spider would be painful, and there is always the risk of a anaphylactic allergic reaction that could be serious and/or lethal, however absent a significant allergy to the venom, a person is unlikely to die from a bite.  

Dr. Daniele Polotow elaborates to say that even phoneutria bites are rarely fatal. Having worked more than 10 years for the research institute in Brazil that produces all the spider and snake antivenoms and vaccines for Brazilian hospitals, she reports that the majority of people bitten by these spiders don't receive antivenom.  The treatment standard is observation and palliative care. This includes treatment even for the scientists who work directly with the live spiders collecting venom.  She reports the bite is extremely painful and may cause confusion and other symptoms of neurotoxicity, but is rarely fatal and easily treated.   She then goes on to caution that, despite ongoing research into Central American spiders, a lot remains unknown regarding the effects, toxicity, and symptoms their venoms cause. Better to be safe than sorry.   If one finds it necessary to erradicate a questionable spider, doing so won't endanger the species. Logging, mining, and real estate expansion are the real dangers to species extinctions.

An internet search I conducted in Spanish regarding Ctenus sinuatipes bites turned up a report by the Organization for Tropical Studies data base in Costa Rica of an individual bitten in 1981.  (The spider was captured and later identified as a female Ctenus sinuatipes.  The specimen is registered at the Museum of Zoology in Costa Rica.) The report indicates a 25 yr old woman was gathering laundry on her patio in San Rafael de Coronado when she received a spider bite on her left thumb.   The victim immediately felt intense pain at the bite site, a generalized sensation of fever and diaphoresis, edema, moderate cyanosis and numbness of the hand where a bloody puncture wound was seen at the innoculation point. An hour later she experienced dizziness and fainting, coldness of the hand and tightness in the elbow joint.  Later, she had a headache.  The following day she experienced persistent numbness of the hand.  The third day she had pain that radiated to the elbow upon applying pressure to the bite wound.  On the fifth day she was asymptomatic.  Treatment consisted of intramuscular antihistamines, intramuscular penicillin, and oral analgesics and anti inflammatory medication. 

Internet photo of  Ctenus sinuatipes found in Costa Rica.  Note the sinuous final segments of the hind legs. 

Lost Waterfall # 2

A friend and I spent one Sunday morning hiking up the Lost Waterfalls trail in Bajo Mono, Boquete.  We got as far as the second of three waterfalls located in the area. The hike was a bit difficult, due mainly to the steep incline and damp earth pathways, but arriving at such a peaceful location truly compensated for the effort.   
My friend, being in better physical condition than I, attempted the additional hike to Waterfall # 3, but returned disappointed.  She said the trail was essentially a straight vertical climb that required holding onto ropes and trudging through slippery mud.  She felt the trek was nearly impossible at this time of year and encouraged me to emphasize its inadvisability.  I was more than happy to take her word for it...

This was our second visit to the area, having reached only the trail head on our first outing.  The waterfalls are located on private property and there is a $5 charge per person to visit the waterfalls.  We were told the owner is Wendy Burton, someone I've never met, and that she is retired and no longer visits the grounds with any frequency.  (Given the effort entailed in getting there, this is understandable.)  The fees are purportedly used to maintain the trail, however one shouldn't expect maintenance characteristic of trails in the US , Canada, or other first world countries. You are keenly aware you are in the rain forest when you hike these paths.   The rates charged for hiking the property could conceivably raise sufficient funds to support the Ngobe caretaker and family living in a tiny hut at the trail entrance, but then again, maybe not.  We encountered no other hikers on either of our two outings there. 

Getting to the trail head is an effort in and of itself.  The only way to get there is on foot.  On our first attempt, it took about 45 minutes and a lot of huffing and puffing. Most of the walk is uphill. On our second trip, we made it to the trail head in about 15-20 minutes due to better physical conditioning and not stopping for photos. There is a small cabaña at the trail entrance that rents out for $90 a night on Airbnb.  We were told it has no electricity nor internet. Our enthusiasm for staying at the cabaña was dampened by the thought of carting food, drink, and personal items up to that location.  

Start of path to trail head 

Cabaña right next to the trail head

View from the start of the Lost Waterfalls Trail

Caretaker's hut







From the trail head to the first waterfall is about a 10 minute climb and the trail then levels off and eventually heads downhill. 

We chose instead to follow the trail up to the second waterfall...

The pool at the bottom of the falls was large and deep enough to swim, but I've never been a fan of cold water.  The spray alone was enough to prompt use of an extra windbreaker.  Instead we made ourselves comfortable on some large rocks and enjoyed a quick picnic lunch before heading back down to a quicker pace---Chiriqui style, as seen below.

Sitio Barriles, Volcan, Panama

Sitio Barriles is a pre-colombian archeological site located on private land near Volcan, Chiriqui in Panama.  I'm told that personnel from National Geographic came at one time and helped with excavations, however they are no longer involved. I haven't corroborated the veracity of the following, but I was informed that personnel from this institution took most of the "better pieces" out of the country.  Whether this is true or not, and whether the artifacts were purchased or taken, is also up for speculation.  This information was not provided by the site's official guide, but rather communicated via rumor mill.  I am ashamed to admit I don't care enough to research further.  Bottom line the pieces that were allegedly discovered there, are no longer there.  If National Geographic did remove them from the country, hopefully they are somewhere where they can be appreciated by a much wider audience.  

The small finca that houses the remaining artifacts and history is open to the public and is frequently visited by educational institutions.  The grounds are scenic and captivating as well. There is a small fee for a guided tour both the museum and grounds.  Tourists are $5 per person and locals are $3 per person.

This statue is a replica of the original which is located in a national museum.  It is a symbolic representation of the peoples who comprised the ancient civilization that populated the area.  They were comprised of Asiatic and African elements and are reported to have collaboratively inhabited the region. 

Noting that the Asian was on top, being transported by the African, I questioned our guide's explanation that they collaborated.  It was then she explained that the statue is a reflection of the collaboration.  The African is depicted as blind, and the Asian as lame.  The two peoples were able to accomplish their needs and goals through mutual effort and assistance.  

Below are a few artifacts found in the small on-site museum.

Mother and Child statue

These are ancient map rocks, indicating a central location and surrounding foot trails.

Another map rock of trails leading to the summit of Volcan Baru

Sign of the serpent,  for good luck

The area above remains to be excavated.  Students from the universities donate labor as time permits. 

The above photos are of a hillside that has been partially excavated to reveal an ancient burial ground.  Remains of the dead were stored in the clay pots embedded in the hillside. 

Pre-historic ferns and bamboo forests comprise much of the natural landscaping along the trails to the burial grounds.