The Paso Canoas Experience

For many expats who either can't afford or can't commit to establishing formal residency here in Panama, a relatively painless alternative has always been available. Referred to as border hopping or border runs, the activity involves going to the "frontera" of Panama with Costa Rica and following a simple process.    Costa Rican expats follow the same process, only in reverse, and on any given day, even friendships and networking sometimes happens amongst the multiple participants from either or both sides. In general, border authorities respond benignly to these procedures, provided the individuals presenting appear respectable, reasonably affluent and harmless.

Essentially what happens is a person whose visa is about to expire [from either country] signs out of the country they are living in,  signs into the other country at the border, spends a few hours shopping and having lunch in the neighboring country, then wraps up the excursion, signs out of the neighboring country and then re-enters the country they live in with a new visa that usually lasts 3-6 months.   

Apparently, the rules changed about 2-3 months ago.  Word has it there's a new immigration chief at the border, and an official mandate was issued requiring that people in the above situation spend at least 24 hours out of their respective country before re-entering.   Additionally, new documents to prove economic stability are being demanded before border personnel will grant re-entry. A friend from the USA, after spending the night in a one-star hotel [the best hotel in Paso Canoas], was required to provide a return airline ticket to the USA,  show she had $500 cash on her person, show a credit card and statement indicating available balance on the card, and provide a copy of her personal bank statement before being allowed back into Panama.  

Because of these changes, I decided a few days ago to investigate the accommodations in Paso Canoas.  The most expensive lodging I found was Cabinas Romy, located in the center of town on the Costa Rican side.  The rate for one person in a room with one queen bed, low season, is $28.  This includes wifi and air conditioning, but there is no hot water.  The rooms are clean but very basic.  On the day I went, the hotel personnel were barely accommodating.  

Cabinas Romy, above, is where my friend stayed. She reports an unfortunate incident with the evening receptionist. She left for dinner, and when she returned her room key broke off in the lock as she was attempting to open the door. The receptionist initially refused to help her, stating he was alone in the office. She asked what he suggested be done, as she had no intention of remaining outside all night. He harshly blamed her for "incorrectly unlocking the door", and told her she'd have to pay for calling in a locksmith.  She asked to speak with the hotel owner or manager. Her request was denied. At that point she snapped photos of the lock & key with her cell phone, and threatened to go to the police. The receptionist reluctantly relented, obtained tools, removed the key, allowed her access to her room, and gave her a replacement key. 

Right next door to the Cabinas Romy, is a smaller location called Cabinas Hilda. Rooms there run about $12 for one person.  When I was investigating, I was unable to see the interior of a room because they were all occupied, but I did snap this outside photo. The facility didn't seem much different from the Cabinas Romy at less than half the price.  The receptionist was pleasant. 

Also next door to Cabinas Romy, on the opposite side, is a small hotel and restaurant called the Interamericano.  I was told rooms there also run about 

$ 12 for one person.  I didn't explore the rooms, but did eat in the restaurant and enjoyed a great meal and cerveza for about $8.  

Just outside of town, about a 5 minute drive into Costa Rica, is a hotel called Los Higuerones, which comes well-recommended by other bloggers.  I called to inquire about low season rates, and was told the rate was $36 for one person. I didn't go to explore. It isn't easily accessible to shopping and restaurants, and requires driving or a taxi to get there.  My friend didn't want to travel outside the town, so she also deferred on this recommendation. 

To summarize, the times they are a changin' at the frontera, and many expats will have to either adapt to the changes or commit to legitimizing their residency.  Guess this sort of thing happens when too many people get wind of a good thing, and business minds smell a way to make a profit. 

Changes at the Border, et.al

Recently heard it was getting more difficult to make the customary border runs to renew visas in Panama. On October 13th I took a drive out to Paso Canoas to find out for myself. Spoke with one of the exit border agents, who confirmed that they had received a mandate from on high requiring them to insist on a 24 hour out-of-country stay before allowing a visa renewal and return entrance into Panama. I did a little shopping, researched a few hotels,  and returned home.  

Today news was circulating that Chase and JP Morgan have both restricted money transfers out of the US, and have limited their daily withdrawal amounts for cash.  Looks like things are going to be getting tougher for expats all around, and perhaps could affect the decisions of people considering a move out of the US.  If I had to do it all over again, given the current social and financial climate both here and in the US, I'd probably not make the move. 

In the 5 years I've been in Panama, I've seen the sales tax raised to levels comparable to those in California---even exceeding it in certain product areas, such as cell phones and telecommunications.  I've seen the cost of domestic goods almost double.  My utilities bill has quadrupled  Granted, there's been increased usage living here year around, but still, I've seen a 50% cost increase for equal or decreased usage in just this last year.   The price of several food items has increased by 75% or more.

Crime has also been on the rise, especially in Panama City. I have 3 personal acquaintances who have either themselves or their family members been victims of physical violence and assault in the commission of robberies.  Two of the men were severely beaten, even after having complied with  the wishes of the assailants. 

All in all, the reasons I came down here in the first place---for the opportunity to live in a tropical country and enjoy a different culture and lifestyle---haven't changed. But the economic advantages I once hoped to enjoy have significantly narrowed. Many of the people who moved here around the same time I did,  have moved on---either to other countries,  or returned to their points of origin. Many others are contemplating relocation. I find myself once again vacillating.  Will I stay or will I go? This seems to be a recurrent theme at this point in my life....

Double Trouble?

Today I stopped in at the local market to buy plantains.  They sell for 20 cents a piece.   I requested five, and the vendor cut four, then asked me if I "would mind" taking the above plantain for my fifth one.  As you can see, it is two plantains grown together covered in only one peel.  I readily accepted, commenting it was two for the price of one. Why on earth should I mind?

She then told me that many people won't buy double plaintains.  She said the indigenous women are especially opposed to them.  They believe that if they buy one, "their babies will be born stuck together".

Fascinating.  I assured the vendor I had no plans to have babies any time soon, and packed away my bargain.   Come to think of it, I am frequently sold double plantains in the market place.  Could it be other vendors take one look at me and realize I couldn't possibly be plagued by such fears?  One more benefit of being a retiree in Panama...

Visiting a Mission in Canas Verdes

Boquete has a variety of expat-funded charities established in recent years by multiple USA, Canadian and European transplants.  The constant clamoring for money, attention, goods, and volunteerism can turn even the most well-meaning among us a little cynical.  As for me, I was born cynical. 

But, like most of us, I do feel the call to do something  in some way that is life affirming and ego gratifying. I'm having a hard time finding the right cause, though.  Aside from helping neighbors in small ways with loans and other assistance, and doing some English tutoring off and on,  I can't say I've done much.  It's not that I'm unwilling, it's just that I'm jaded and want to find the right opportunity.   

This morning I accompanied a small group of Christians to the community of Canas Verdes, where fourteen Ngobe Bugle families are learning about the Lord while enjoying child care and full stomachs.  Their needs are being met by a warm Panamanian couple who have lived among the Ngobe for the last 12 years.  These people are living in primitive quarters without electricity or running water.   The road to the community is unpaved, even ungraded in spots, and dark and treacherous in others.  Four wheel drive is required to drive in, and even then, one can't drive more than 5 mph.  It's a 25 minute "drive" in a good vehicle. 

On this trip, the objective was to deliver solar lights to the families.  Money for the devices was contributed by school children affiliated with the Pentecostal Church of God, in Bedford, Texas.  Apparently the children sold candy bars and raised $500 which was used to purchase the lighting. The devices are nifty, sturdy, light-weight globes that can be carried as flashlights, or placed upright in stands to function as lamps.  They can also be used to charge cell phones, which is truly a godsend,  given the nearest electrical outlet is an hour's walk down the mountain to the tiny outpost known as Palmira Arriba.

Above, Gene Melton is providing instructions in assembly and use of the lights, aided by interpreter Raquel Sitton.  Below, Ana, the Panamanian wife who gives her time so freely to care for and feed the Ngobe children, is demonstrating the solar panel and how to connect it.  In the foreground is Bob Wilson, whose mission work lead to the donation. 

The overall objective in this union of the Bob & Marcela Wilson ministries with Ana and Rodrigo's dedication to their neighbors, is construction of a small community center where people can come together for feeding, education and worship.  Apparently this center has been the focus of Ana and Rodrigo's prayers for the last 12 years.  It's underway, with the beginning of what seemed an insurmountable funding of about $20,000.  Ground has been broken, and manpower will hopefully be dedicated to erecting the walls in the next two weeks.  Meanwhile, Ana continues to feed and watch the children, whose parents leave them in the dawn-filled  mornings to toil away for a meager day's wages in the coffee fields of surrounding plantations. Rodrigo works closely with the parents, gives weekly bible sermons, and handles numerous physical jobs around their minimal home/meeting place.

For anyone interested in learning more about the project, or possibly even donating money and/or time to help, you can learn more at this link:   http://www.bob-marcelawilson.org/outreach-projects/.  I hope to provide intermittent updates, as I suspect I will get more involved in this endeavor. 

The Boquete Highway: Progress Panacea or Pedestrian Peril?

Set out this afternoon to snap photos of what I thought would be a very positive post on the status of the David-Boquete four lane highway.   The pedestrian overpass by the CEFATI building is almost finished, and there are pretty little blue-roofed bus stops sprouting up all along the route.  There's even a small island  near the entrance that has been filled with green grass and bright flowers to perk up the parkway.  

My mistake was setting out on foot to take the photos.  But it it was only a short walk and I didn't want the encumbrance of parking a car. The experience was quite enlightening.  It's astounding what's absent from the overall plan... 
With a huge car-less segment of local population, you'd expect a highway project of this magnitude to include the means for pedestrian access across the thoroughfare to public transportation  points along the route. With only a short while until the politicos stage some kind of official highway inauguration,  there has been abysmally little accomplished on behalf of pedestrians.  

One crosswalk is painted on the roadway some distance ahead of the bus stop shown below.  But it ends at the decorative center island, just ahead of a sign telling people NOT to walk on the grass.  The nearest roadway intersection is about 20 feet away, and there are no crosswalk markings where people are actually able to cross the road. Words can't begin to express the conundrum the pedestrian encounters trying to get from point A to B now that the 4-lane road is in place.  Perhaps these photos will help illustrate it.  You're literally taking your life in your hands trying to cross the road.

Crosswalk to center island where stepping on grass is prohibited, leading to nowhere. 

 

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Hopefully the grave oversights will be addressed before serious pedestrian injuries or even deaths result.  As for me, I'll just keep driving....

A Wedding and a Funeral

Since the last entry nearly a month ago not much has happened in these parts.  No political unrest, no major changes of note...The four lane highway from David to Boquete is nearing completion, however, and they've finally moved the electric posts out of the middle of the traffic lanes.  The center dividers have been filled with earth, flowers and grass, and all  four lanes have been opened to traffic in some areas.   It's starting to look nice, even though there's still a ways to go.   Will try to snap some photos soon.  

Spent last weekend at a lovely wedding in Panama City attended by around 700  friends of a young Panamanian couple.   It was my first Panamanian wedding, and found the protocol similar to  in the states, but  less "uptight".  Unlike in the US, there was no wedding march as the bride entered.  Instead the congregation cheered as she walked down the aisle with her father,  and there was  more interaction between the priest, the couple, family members and congregation during the ceremony.  The groom greeted the bride at the altar with a kiss before any of the rituals began, which I found a nice touch.   The priest even made a joke about marriage during his sermon, which was also well-received.  In general, it was warmer, and not as stiff as those I've attended in the states. Panamanians don't seem to be quite as taken with themselves as their North American and European counterparts.  They are much more natural and charming.  

That said, Panamanians DO like to dress for these occasions, and weddings are often formal affairs.  This one required long gowns for female guests and suits for the men. White orchids filled the church and reception room.  The reception lasted 12 hours, there were three live orchestras plus a DJ that provided music, an open bar,  and endless food and french champagne. The dance floor was full most of the night and everyone seemed to thoroughly enjoy themselves.  

On a more somber note, one of my neighbors suffered a heart attack and passed away a day before I left for Panama City.  Obviously, I didn't attend the funeral, but I did observe the general proceedings prior to that.  In Panama, as in other Latin American countries, embalming isn't a customary practice.  The deceased, if hospitalized, is expediently released by the hospital to the mortuary, and from there driven to the family home where friends and relatives remain with the body until it is buried.  Everyone who knew the deceased stops by the home to pay their respects.  Not being close to these neighbors, and not understanding customary practice in Panama, I planned to prepare a dish to take over to the widow and family.  I was advised against it by close Panamanian friends.  I was told that doing so would be an affront to the family.  I'm still not clear on the psychology behind this, but suffice it to say I refrained from following my instincts. Instead, the practice is for people to stop by the deceased's home, drink coffee, pray, and leave.  Over the course of 48 hours the home became Grand Central station and I couldn't help but feel concerned for the widow and her daughters. Lights and the front door were left on and open 24 hours, and I could hear people stopping by even at 2:00 am. How this is supposed to be supportive of the survivors is not something I can easily understand, but the intent is to be exactly that.  To me it seems more like an intrusion when one is most vulnerable. I was assured by other neighbors this is not the case. Nevertheless, I refrained from becoming part of the foot traffic and waited to deliver my condolences when I saw the family outside a few days following the funeral.  But this is not the most politically correct or appropriate action in such circumstances.  

Lastly, I've begun tutoring expats who have taken Spanish courses but still aren't able to communicate with the locals.  It's keeping me busy and helping to improve the quality of my own Spanish.  This latter activity is partially responsible for my sparse postings over the last few weeks.  

Panama's Metro is Marching Along

Things are on schedule for the February 2014 inauguration of the first Central American light rail system, to be situated in Panama City.  The initial railway trains arrived recently from Spain, and there was plenty of fan fare regarding the occasion, celebrated June 11th with a presidential visit.  Below are some photos snapped and sent to me by a friend who was in attendance in Panama City.

The following photo was dowloaded from the Metro's official website.  The first thought to cross my mind upon viewing it was, "all that wasted space".  The trams are pretty, no doubt about it, but hailing from San Francisco and knowing how crowded the BART trains get at rush hour, I can't help but wonder why the seats weren't arranged more in bus-like fashion, allowing for double or triple the conveyor capacity.  One of the reasons the Metro is so needed is because of the traffic jams and shortage of buses to move the working population from point to point. Perhaps the wagon in the photo is just for show. According to government PR regarding the Metro, each car supposedly accommodates 200 people, and each train, 600 people.  There are four doors and six windows per car.  Unless the seating changes, though, seems most of the 200 people will be standing, and packed in like sardines.  

Contrast the above photo of the Metro car interior with San Francisco's BART train interiors for the bay area (below). Hopefully there will be a means to expand the seating for Panama City's residents.  The need is certainly there.  The first line to be completed is the Albrook route. 

SF BART car interiors

Harvest time

It never ceases to amaze me how much harvest one can achieve from even a small, poorly planned plot of dirt.  While out "gathering" today, my tiny backyard yielded about 100 bananas, 6 lbs of maracuya, 10 plantains, 5 chayote squash, 25 sweet green peppers, 6 bitter oranges, 8 juice oranges, and a handful of limes.  Had to give away about 30 bananas from the last batch, because they all ripen at once and I can't possibly eat or use all of them at once.  This newest batch is even larger. These particular bananas are gourmet.  They're only about 7 inches long, but are very thick.  They have the greatest texture (doubt it's low-calorie) and are bursting with flavor.  But there I go, bragging about my garden again. 

We've had several days of rain, and it's going to start again in another hour or so, but the morning sun and warmth  has been very welcome.  We definitely need the rain, so no complaints there, either.    

Not a lot going on in the old pueblo at this time.  Some expat bingo activities in Palmira which I chose to forego,  and the usual drinking at Amigos or Mike's.  Instead I'm working on a few translations, studying Spanish, and chatting with the neighbors while waiting for my papayas to ripen.  Retirement can sometimes be a huge challenge...

Below is a maracuya plant, with a fruit peeking out amongst the leaves.

And one of my kitties trying to figure out how to pull it down.