Long overdue update

                                                                  Photo from Panama Canal Website

Wow...it's been nearly 2 months since my last post.  A lot has been going on in the world.  I've been so busy following the news that I haven't had the time to sit down and actually write about any of it.  

The USA presidential primaries have been akin to a reality show this year.  The Republicans have taken a no-holds-barred approach to political competition and no subject has been too personal to discuss during televised debates.  The rest of the world continues to enjoy lots of laughs and endless amazement at just how arrogant, prejudiced, and base we "Americans" are. The Democratic primaries are proceeding with a little more dignity, but there seems to be a lot of disillusionment with voter suppression issues and campaign rigging. Here in Panama the expat community seems just as divided as the folks back home. 

In Boquete there's definite evidence of the doomsday Christian immigratory wave. It can be perceived in the news pieces that are circulated on the local forums or via casual conversations overheard in public places.  Or, sometimes it shows up even in direct conversation intended for a different heading.  I recently learned many Boquete newbies believe that the general election in November will result in rioting and civil disorder sufficient for President Obama to declare martial law. The expectation is that subsequent to doing so, he will remain in office for an additional term "as he has desired all along" and that the US will become a dictatorship.  (I find this incredulous, but would certainly take an Obama dictatorship over a Trump presidency if those were the only options.)

I've received some orientation to digital currency, as well as a variety of conspiracy theories. 

The Cuban refugee situation is intensifying.  Costa Rica mobilized 8,000 Cuban refugees from their borders to the USA in the past year, at significant governmental cost.  The country claims it is unable to maintain this burden and has announced border closure.  Costa Rica, on April 15th,  identified enforcement measures it plans to apply regarding some 3000 Cuban migrants and 500 African / Asian migrants currently in Paso Canoas wanting to traverse their country. They will detain them in immigration centers and arrange for deportation.  The same morning, Costa Rica transferred about 200 people originating from Africa and Asia  back onto Panamanian soil after having been allowed to cross through Panama's border onto the Costa Rican side. Demonstrations along the Pan American highway resulted, and a strong police presence is being maintained in front of the immigration building there.  One Cuban man who was interviewed by the local TV channel stated, "Panama says it is helping us, and we are grateful for having a roof over our heads, but the accommodations are inhuman.  We are just as repressed here as we were in Cuba." Considering they have arrived en masse short on funds to maintain themselves and are being provided with food, water, and shelter, I take exception to the comment.  But then, I'm not living under the same conditions. A high level CARITAS worker in Panama interviewed by the local news station reported that Cubans who have reached Panama through Colombia are all reporting rough treatment from Colombian police and other officials who rob them of their cash.  They allegedly set out with money to care for themselves, but end up in Panama with nothing after their travels through Colombia.  Paso Canoas is a small town that can be completely traversed on foot in 20 minutes. It has few hotels. Pictures on the TV showed people living in tents under some type of large concrete structure with a tin roof.  The CARITAS worker also mentioned Puerto Obaldía, another small town where other Cubans have entered Panama.  She said the town consists of 600 people, but 800 Cubans have now arrived there.  There is one doctor to attend to the entire village, and the additional migrants as well as the nearby comarca, have overwhelmed the delivery of health care there.

Cubans have been migrating to the US and other countries via Ecuador for a number of years.  According to reports, Costa Rica has been passing 20,000 people a year through it's borders en route to "el norte". The current crisis began back in November of 2015 when Costa Rican police broke up an illegal coyote ring that moved these people.  Costa Rica arrested and incarcerated 12 individuals, which threw a huge wrench in the [illegal] system.  Then in December, Nicaragua closed it’s borders to the immigrants, and Costa Rica was stuck having to mobilize 8000 Cubans headed for the US.  Costa Rica struggled valiantly with the problem and resolved it, but the immigrants keep coming.  Seems the ball has finally landed in Panama’s court and the outcome should be interesting.  Panama’s vice-president, Isabel St. Malo,  has emphasized Panama is concerned with humanitarian issues and is implementing measures to provide these people with attention while trying to work out international agreements. 

The Orchid Feria, the Jazz Festival, and Boquete's 105th anniversary have come and gone since my last post.  The Orchid Festival was the same as usual. The Jazz Festival was very expensive with shorter musical performances. In comparison to the Panama City Jazz Festival, which attracts tens of thousands of attendees, at an average cost of $10 per ticket and integrates the local community, Boquete's Jazz Festival cost $70 a ticket, took place in Valle Escondido, and may have included a handful of wealthy token Panamanians. The event I attended was full of non-local, non-resident groupies. There was a pervasive commerciality to the ambiance, and some gringo organizer kept bragging to me about the custom-made silver jewelry he was wearing. What a contrast to the rest of life down here. 

The Boquete Anniversary celebrations lasted a few days and included a cabalgata, typical and modern music in central park, school gatherings, a contest to elect a festivities queen, and civic and traditional performances.  I only marginally participated this year, but enjoyed the atmosphere and horse parade.  

The Panama Papers scandal has changed things here in not so good a way. Panamanians are feeling any combination of embarrassed, ashamed, indignant, persecuted, defiant and/or perplexed. They are an exceedingly patriotic people who take any criticism of their country personally and are very anxious that the scandal not be a label for the country.  A lot of things are going on internally, and the international press is also saturated with information about the matter, so I have little motivation to write more at this time.  Perhaps in a later post.  Suffice it to say that Panama is feeling the international pressure to comply with the automatic data interchange system established by the OCDE.  Though highly resistant, someone recently sent me an article out  of France indicating Panama has relented.  I haven't seen the same announcement locally, however.  

Lastly, the Canal Expansion is close to being opened.  The canal is currently in a testing and final touch phase, but the end is very near!  

A Paso Canoas Lodging Alternative

Most people would agree that Paso Canoas isn't exactly a vacation hot spot.  But many expats still go there for a variety of reasons.  After playing the tourist game for more years than I care to admit, I'm no longer obligated to make these trips, but they've sort of become a quarterly routine for me and I still like to regularly shop there.   I headed out two days ago and made my first stop at La Morenita as usual to drop off the car and check in.   Vilka greeted me warmly and then with a chagrinned expression said she had hoped I wouldn't be showing up this month. Apparently the hostal was full and there wasn't even a spare sofa to offer me.  She explained that the stranded Cubans had filled up the place and she was under government contract to give them priority lodging.  She expected things to lighten up in March.  In her usual, attentive fashion though, she called a friend who was able to put me up at their hotel. She said the name of the place was Las Canarias, and it was in the town center.  

Having a good idea of what central Paso Canoas hotels were like, I was less than enthusiastic about staying anywhere in town.   But Vilka assured me the place was decent. When I got there I was pleasantly surprised.  It's located about 300 meters south of the Panamanian immigration building on the road heading toward Puerto Armuellas.  If you follow that road, you will pass a Pio Pio place, a Melo store, a Banco Nacional branch, and then reach a strip mall across from a gas station and automotive repair / tire place.  

The hotel residencial Las Canarias is actually two facilities, one on the Panamanian side and one on the Costa Rican side of the border.  The hotel on the Panamanian side,  which is the one on the Puerto Armuellas road and is shown in the photo above, is the more expensive of the two. But the price differences are minimal ---around a $10 per room (and you get a lot more space for that $10).  

I was warmly greeted by name at the reception desk when I walked in.  The attendant spoke flawless English and I learned his father is Panamanian and his mother British, so he grew up with both languages.  He considers himself Panamanian.  My room charge was $50.   There are available parking spots off the road in front of the hotel, and I was assured there is a watchman at night.  The hotel itself is upstairs over the strip mall. Downstairs, next to the hotel entrance, is a small coffee shop.   

I asked about nearby restaurants for a more substantial meal and learned that their  Costa Rican facility, located 1.5 blocks away, offered home-cooked typical dishes, and so I decided to head there for dinner after some shopping.  

The rooms are  clean, spacious, and nicely decorated.  A standard room comes with two queen beds, private bath, air conditioning, cable television, hot water with great water pressure, and a small seating area.  There is a spacious and comfortable lobby as well, with numerous magazines to peruse.  Compared to equally priced other downtown locations, this place has it hands down. 

After shopping, I headed over to the Costa Rican facility for dinner. When I walked in, there was an attractive lady sitting at one of the tables who greeted me and asked me if I was "la señora Charlotte." She told me the attendant at the other building had called to tell her I'd be coming.  She asked me what I'd like to eat and said she could offer me fish filet, pork chops, chicken, or beef with a salad and rice, beans, a "casado" or patacones.  I ordered fish with salad and patacones and ice cold Imperial, a Costa Rican beer that I like much more than any of the Panamanian brands.  The food was delicious, the service excellent, and $10 covered everything, including tax and tip. The next morning I chose to eat there again instead of in the downstairs coffee shop.  There is no menu.  You simply tell the cook what you want and she prepares it for you.  I had a ham, cheese and onion omelette with ripe plantains and natilla (a Costa Rican cultured cream) on the side, plus a huge cup of local coffee.  The meal was $ 8.50 including tax and tip. 

At the Costa Rican facility, parking is off road and enclosed and roofed.  I didn't ask to see a room there, however as I was leaving I looked into one being cleaned and found it acceptable, but much smaller and plainer than the one I stayed in on the Panama side. To my way of thinking, the extra $10 is worth it.   Here  are some photos of the Panamanian facility's entrance and lobby areas as well as a photo of my room. 

They also offer a deluxe suite that has a jacuzzi tub, king size bed, small refrigerator and sound system.  The charge for the suite is $ 100 per night. 

For additional photos or information, the link to their facebook page is below:

https://www.facebook.com/Hotel-Residencial-Las-Canarias-340456312712255/

Below are photos of the location, entrance, and lobby / restaurant facilities at the Costa Rican Las  Canarias location.

It's not easy to find decent lodging in this small border town.  I've tried several.  Prices don't vary all that much.  For the same room rates, you could do much worse.  Even if you were to pay more, you won't find locations better than either La Morenita or Las Canarias. And nothing beats their customer service.   Here's hoping things don't change anytime soon. 

My First Bad Border Experience

After nearly nine years of living half-in and half-out of Panama, I finally decided to stay here permanently.  I returned from the states in mid-August and obtained legal residency.  I have a temporary Panamanian ID, valid for one year, and the permanent one arrives in the next few months. I've avoided excessive border hops because of my frequent trips to the states, but nevertheless have found myself making 1-2 runs a year to renew my 90-day driving privileges on a US drivers license. Once my permanent ID arrives, I will be able to apply for a Panamanian driver's license.

Yesterday, on day 88 of my return, I headed to Paso Canoas for what I was hoping would be the last exit and re-entry to update my driving privileges. With two days to spare, I stamped out of Panama as I always do, and walked over to Costa Rica to sign in at immigration there.   I noticed there were an unusually large number of people standing around the waiting area and along the side of the building, but attributed it to being November, which is a holiday month in Panama.  I remember thinking, "Wow, there are a lot of Panamanians leaving this weekend."  Then I noticed several policemen in the area, and black & yellow tape cordoning off the immediate area in front of immigration's entry and exit windows.  Figuring there must be some remodeling going on somewhere, I walked up to one of the policemen and asked where the entry had been moved to.  He instructed me to climb under the tape and walk up to the windows.

I approached an empty window and handed over my completed immigration form and passport to the waiting agent.  A very arrogant young man immediately demanded to see my airline ticket corroborating a flight from Costa Rica to the USA.  I provided him with a ticket from Panama City, Panama to the USA in December, right before Christmas.  He refused to accept it.  He stated he needed proof of my exit from Costa Rica, not from Panama.  I explained to him that I resided in Panama and planned on staying less than 24 hours in Costa Rica, as is customary for Costa Rican or Panamanian expats needing to update visas or driving privileges from either side of the border.  

My clarification was useless with this particular agent, and he advised me if I wanted to enter Costa Rica, I would have to purchase a $ 20 bus ticket from San Jose, Costa Rica (which is 8 hours from the border) to David, Panama.  I questioned the need for it, because in nine years of crossing back and forth, I've never had to provide this.  I explained again that I resided in Panama, had driven to the border, and would be returning in my private vehicle that was about 6 blocks away.   He insisted a bus ticket was required. I commented that I found this policy objectionable as it obviously benefited the Costa Rican bus company and took advantage of tourists who might want to just shop for a few hours.  (About a year ago, Costa Rica implemented a $7.00 exit tax for people crossing from Costa Rica into Panama, and everyone has had to just accept the imposition.  Panama has not levied any similar fees.)  

The agent informed me  I could not enter Costa Rica without it, so I left to buy the ticket.  About 20 minutes later,  I returned with the bus ticket.  The agent immediately called his supervisor and I was informed by her that I would not be allowed to enter Costa Rica because I had been rude to her agent and accused him of promoting the bus company's business interest.  I denied this and repeated exactly what I had said, but I might as well have spit in the wind.   I was told to go around the corner to enter a door on the side the building.  It opened into a small, windowless office with one desk and a side chair.  There were two Costa Rican immigration police with bullet proof vests standing by the desk.  I was instructed to come in and sit down.  One of the police officers held a typed NCR form in his hand.  I hesitated.  Visions of a Costa Rican interrogation and/or jail cell popped into my head, as ridiculous as that may seem.... They insisted I enter.  I entered but remained standing and asked if I was being detained or arrested.  They never answered, but then the two of them together directed me to leave with them.  I insisted they tell me where we were going first.  And I repeated my question about being detained.  One of the officers cracked a slight smile and responded that I wasn't being detained. The other one then explained that I was being sent back to Panama and they would accompany me because otherwise Panama wouldn't receive me.

So, for the next 6 blocks or so, I walked between two police officers in riot gear back to Panama immigration and was not given possession of my passport.  I was ushered into the back of the Panama immigration office (which thankfully had windows) and was again instructed to be seated.  No one spoke to me, but one of the officers handed my passport to a Panamanian immigration official who examined it for five minutes with a magnifying glass.  After viewing the multiple entry/exit visa, he requested my temporary ID and then examined it under the magnifying glass for another two minutes.  Eventually he stamped over the exit notation in the passport and I saw that they had annulled it.   I was  then allowed  to leave.  It was 7:30 pm and dark, so I headed to Hostal La Morenita and booked a room for the night.  The next morning I considered trying to cross the border again, but noticed my two escorts from the night before were inside the office and decided to give up and go home without updating my passport status.

What I subsequently learned sheds a lot of light on the rationale for my treatment at the border and probably explains why my innocent but irritated and ill-thought comment got me into the trouble it did.    A kind Panamanian whose ear I bent at the hostal advised me  next time to tell the border agent I plan to stay 3 days in Golfito and to speak English.   Apparently there is a big push to generate as much revenue as possible in Costa Rica from people who pass through the country.  Additionally, Costa Rica has their own little "Cuban Crisis" going on.  Because I'd been taking a respite from the local news for the last few weeks, I walked right into it clueless.  I will explain and elaborate in the next post.

A Better Paso Canoas Experience

Everyone has been talking about Hostal La Morenita, the newest lodging option in Paso Canoas, so I decided to explore for myself this weekend.  I was more than pleasantly surprised.  Prices are in keeping with other options in town,  yet you get so much more for those same prices. 

The facility is clean, has comfortable, common outside space and social areas, modern, efficient air conditioning, comfortable beds, wi-fi, and even a small internet cafe with late model hardware and monitors.  Meals are prepared by the owners, Ricardo and Nilka, and I thoroughly enjoyed my favorite typical Panamanian plate---Corvina al ajillo, patacones, mixed green salad, and an ice cold cerveza Atlas. Although it's being called a hostal, La Morenita is much nicer than hostals I've visited in Panama City.  The rooms are in line with those of Cabinas Romy, in the center of Paso Canoas, however La Morenita's fixtures are much nicer and there is no comparison regarding atmosphere and service. La Morenita is heads above in that aspect as well.

Located about 3 km outside the downtown area, in a town called Canoas Arriba, La Morenita is located on the Panama side of a road that divides it from Costa Rica.  This proved a great advantage for me, because I was able to drive my car all the way to the hostal.  When staying previously in Costa Rican facilities, I couldn't take my car across.  I had to park somewhere on the Panama side and either hail a taxi or shoulder my heavy bags back and forth. In addition to less than pleasant downtown accommodations, I always worried about how safe my car was. This time it wasn't a concern.

Others have remarked on how pleasant and service-oriented the owner Ricardo and his wife are.  I can only agree with everything that has been said about them. Last night Ricardo introduced me to some locals who had stopped in. We all enjoyed good conversation and a pleasant visit outside on the terrace. Jokingly, I told Ricardo I wanted Corvina al ajillo and patacones for breakfast. After having two cups of delicious cafe con leche, this morning. I was served the following breakfast, which I inhaled almost as quickly as last night's dish.  

The only less than pleasant aspect of the entire visit was discovering I had a flat front tire in the morning.  I had noticed a slight vibration when I was driving into David, but after stopping at a gas station and putting air in all tires, the guy there assured me all was well.  Apparently I had ran over something, though.  Even this was easily handled by Ricardo, who possessed an air compressor and inflated the tire so I could drive to a tire store.

I am thrilled to have "found" this place,  recommended by expats who've been here before me.  I selfishly hesitated a bit regarding publishing this post, because I know that the quality of the accommodations coupled with the pleasant atmosphere and excellent cooking will make La Morenita highly sought by those who frequent Paso Canoas for shopping or visa runs.  I discussed with Ricardo my fears that his creation, open for business for only six months, will become so popular that demand will raise prices and bring about other changes.  He responded that he is hoping to be able to keep prices fair and maintain the service quality with full occupancy.  One can certainly hope that remains the case.  

If you are planning a trip to Paso Canoas in the near future, this would be my first recommendation, bar none.   Where in the past I absolutely dreaded going to Paso Canoas, this time I sort of wished I had more time to spend there.