Cuban Culmination?

Some of the 3,000 Cuban refugees that were stranded at the Paso Canoas border have been transferred to Gualaca, where they are being housed in local hostels and provided with medical attention as needed.  Those transferred included pregnant women and children and other persons in more frail conditions.  

Announcements have been made that the authorities are close to reaching some type of diplomatic arrangement for those 3,000 Cubans that are already in Panama.  At the same time, Panama has taken stronger measures to stop the influx of illegals into Panama without actually implementing a border closure.  President Varela announced on April 28th that new or additional refugees who enter Panama illegally will not be allowed to participate in the process currently being negotiated for the 3,000 refugees already housed near the border.  He stressed that Panama will implement a humanitarian effort to assist these detainees, but cannot continue functioning as a permanent logistical backup for illegal migration.  As of that date, Cubans attempting to enter Panama illegally will be detained and returned. The news of this measure has reached Cuba, I am certain, as I viewed an internet video broadcast in Cuba addressing the topic.  Since the announcement, it was calculated that only 100 additional Cubans have passed into Panama.  They are currently under the control of SENAFRONT and the National Migration Service.

President Varela emphasized that Panama will offer whatever emotional or psychological support measures it can to additional migrants illegally crossing the border, but that these persons will have to leave and need to consider which country they wish to return to.

A Paso Canoas Lodging Alternative

Most people would agree that Paso Canoas isn't exactly a vacation hot spot.  But many expats still go there for a variety of reasons.  After playing the tourist game for more years than I care to admit, I'm no longer obligated to make these trips, but they've sort of become a quarterly routine for me and I still like to regularly shop there.   I headed out two days ago and made my first stop at La Morenita as usual to drop off the car and check in.   Vilka greeted me warmly and then with a chagrinned expression said she had hoped I wouldn't be showing up this month. Apparently the hostal was full and there wasn't even a spare sofa to offer me.  She explained that the stranded Cubans had filled up the place and she was under government contract to give them priority lodging.  She expected things to lighten up in March.  In her usual, attentive fashion though, she called a friend who was able to put me up at their hotel. She said the name of the place was Las Canarias, and it was in the town center.  

Having a good idea of what central Paso Canoas hotels were like, I was less than enthusiastic about staying anywhere in town.   But Vilka assured me the place was decent. When I got there I was pleasantly surprised.  It's located about 300 meters south of the Panamanian immigration building on the road heading toward Puerto Armuellas.  If you follow that road, you will pass a Pio Pio place, a Melo store, a Banco Nacional branch, and then reach a strip mall across from a gas station and automotive repair / tire place.  

The hotel residencial Las Canarias is actually two facilities, one on the Panamanian side and one on the Costa Rican side of the border.  The hotel on the Panamanian side,  which is the one on the Puerto Armuellas road and is shown in the photo above, is the more expensive of the two. But the price differences are minimal ---around a $10 per room (and you get a lot more space for that $10).  

I was warmly greeted by name at the reception desk when I walked in.  The attendant spoke flawless English and I learned his father is Panamanian and his mother British, so he grew up with both languages.  He considers himself Panamanian.  My room charge was $50.   There are available parking spots off the road in front of the hotel, and I was assured there is a watchman at night.  The hotel itself is upstairs over the strip mall. Downstairs, next to the hotel entrance, is a small coffee shop.   

I asked about nearby restaurants for a more substantial meal and learned that their  Costa Rican facility, located 1.5 blocks away, offered home-cooked typical dishes, and so I decided to head there for dinner after some shopping.  

The rooms are  clean, spacious, and nicely decorated.  A standard room comes with two queen beds, private bath, air conditioning, cable television, hot water with great water pressure, and a small seating area.  There is a spacious and comfortable lobby as well, with numerous magazines to peruse.  Compared to equally priced other downtown locations, this place has it hands down. 

After shopping, I headed over to the Costa Rican facility for dinner. When I walked in, there was an attractive lady sitting at one of the tables who greeted me and asked me if I was "la señora Charlotte." She told me the attendant at the other building had called to tell her I'd be coming.  She asked me what I'd like to eat and said she could offer me fish filet, pork chops, chicken, or beef with a salad and rice, beans, a "casado" or patacones.  I ordered fish with salad and patacones and ice cold Imperial, a Costa Rican beer that I like much more than any of the Panamanian brands.  The food was delicious, the service excellent, and $10 covered everything, including tax and tip. The next morning I chose to eat there again instead of in the downstairs coffee shop.  There is no menu.  You simply tell the cook what you want and she prepares it for you.  I had a ham, cheese and onion omelette with ripe plantains and natilla (a Costa Rican cultured cream) on the side, plus a huge cup of local coffee.  The meal was $ 8.50 including tax and tip. 

At the Costa Rican facility, parking is off road and enclosed and roofed.  I didn't ask to see a room there, however as I was leaving I looked into one being cleaned and found it acceptable, but much smaller and plainer than the one I stayed in on the Panama side. To my way of thinking, the extra $10 is worth it.   Here  are some photos of the Panamanian facility's entrance and lobby areas as well as a photo of my room. 

They also offer a deluxe suite that has a jacuzzi tub, king size bed, small refrigerator and sound system.  The charge for the suite is $ 100 per night. 

For additional photos or information, the link to their facebook page is below:

https://www.facebook.com/Hotel-Residencial-Las-Canarias-340456312712255/

Below are photos of the location, entrance, and lobby / restaurant facilities at the Costa Rican Las  Canarias location.

It's not easy to find decent lodging in this small border town.  I've tried several.  Prices don't vary all that much.  For the same room rates, you could do much worse.  Even if you were to pay more, you won't find locations better than either La Morenita or Las Canarias. And nothing beats their customer service.   Here's hoping things don't change anytime soon. 

Chaos for Cubans in Canoas

Photo taken from Reuters internet posting.

A Cuban migrant woman receives her passport with the visa granted by the immigration office at the border post with Panama in Paso Canoas, Costa Rica November 14, 2015.  Reuters/Juan Carlos Ulate

Even before traveling back and forth between Panama and the US, I always considered myself to be a culturally sensitive person and have always expended effort trying to behave in a manner that wouldn't create negative feelings about North Americans in foreign countries.  I was born in Germany and have always been critical of "ugly American" stereotypes. In fact, I even did a post some time ago about people I had observed acting in an offensive manner here...

For the most part, I think  I've done a good job of being a positive representative for my country and culture.  I've worked long and hard at speaking intelligent Spanish,  I've made wonderful strides in relaxing what used to be an  uptight, perfectionist nature, and  I get along well with "regular people" in my tight knit, lower-middle class Panamanian neighborhood.  

However, over the past month I've been particularly remiss in following local news and national current events. There's been a lot of unpleasant online bickering in the expat forums and especially related to the quasi-hostile takeover of Ning by some really unbelievable web administrators.  I became frustrated  reading  it all and took a respite from all social and news media for several weeks. This escapism is responsible for my insensitive blooper last night.

I had no idea, for example, that due to the unfreezing of US -Cuban relations, there has been a mass exodus of Cubans heading to the United States to join friends and relatives.  Costa Rica reports it has processed more than 12,000 undocumented Cubans in just the first 9 months of 2015. Honduran numbers are even higher. Cubans are able to fly to Ecuador from their homeland without a visa requirement, and from there they travel over land and water routes through Central America  on their way to the US.  They are traveling undocumented, and apparently have better chances of being received in the US via land than by sea...

The countries though which these people are traveling  have been liberal about their lack of documentation.  They allow detainees to declare they are seeking political asylum in the destination countries, then release them and allow up to 20 days to move on to the next country's border, as they travel via  Colombia, Panama, Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Honduras, Guatemala and Mexico.  Many of the migrants utilize "coyotes" to guide them and interact on their behalf with local immigration officials. These coyotes, allegedly, are part of a large Mafia-based human smuggling ring.

Moving on to the current situation.  Apparently on Nov 11th, Costa Rican officials broke up regional operations of this smuggling ring and arrested 12 Costa Ricans involved at the Peñas Blancas border near Nicaragua.  In doing so, hundreds of illegals were left to their own devices in Costa Rica without documentation or the know how to get around.  These people were re-routed to San Jose, Costa Rica and  detained by immigration officials there.   However, hundreds more kept coming into Costa Rica via Panama, and the 11/11/15 raid created a quagmire that overwhelmed operations at the Paso Canoas border.  So, Costa Rica closed it's borders to Cubans on November 13th, the day I chose to do my routine border hop. 

According to accounts, the Cubans were arriving in Panama via boat from Columbia, and Panama was following their policy of treating them as political refugees seeking asylum in the destination country.  (United States)  Costa Rican authorities are miffed at Panama for continuing to allow them to exit Panama into Costa Rica in light of the problem Costa Rica generated by breaking up the illicit operations. Costa Rica attempted to return the Cubans to Panama, however Panama refused to allow it on the premise the people had already exited the country.   Apparently the numbers of Cubans trying to traverse Costa Rica into Nicaragua via Paso Canoas reached nearly 1600, which is a huge number of people to accommodate in the few lodging facilities the town has.  Nicaragua allegedly was denying entry of the Cubans into their country, which compounded matters.  Many of the "refugees" hadn't funds to pay for lodging, and that's why they were hanging around the immigration offices and sleeping on cardboard cartons and benches.  At one point they also closed down the Interamerican Highway, demanding to be allowed to freely pass through Costa Rica, and created quite a news stir in Costa Rica .  Of course, I don't follow the Costa Rican news stations, and even though there was some Panamanian coverage, I failed to turn that on, either.  

So, enter this clueless gringa who has established residency in Panama.  She walks up to the immigration entry point in Costa Rica and encounters a stressed border agent who was nearing the end of his shift. Instead of just accepting his instructions to go buy a bus ticket to meet heightened immigration security requirements established by all the extra "big guns" who had moved into the office to scrutinize the rank and file's handling of the situation,  she challenges the agent and criticizes the administration's policy of requiring documentation of an entrant's ability and intention of leaving the country.  Wow...hindsight is always 20/20, is it not?    Given what I know now, I'm just thankful they handled me as well as they did while I continued to complain as they walked me back to Panama.   I feel very guilty about it all.    Here Costa Rica was actually working to address a problem that eventually would fall upon the United States after Panama evaded it. And I was a US citizen with residency in Panama, who in all her stupidity was demanding special treatment and criticizing Costa Rica for following appropriate immigration procedures.  If I had been that border agent I probably would have done the same thing.   I guess I win the ugly American award this week. 

Upon my return to Boquete on Saturday afternoon, I learned that Costa Rica had finally developed some type of procedure for issuing temporary 7-day travel visas allowing the Cubans to  pass through their country.  A few hundred people were being deported, however.  I still am not clear on what is going to happen when they reach the Nicaraguan border.  Apparently no one else is either. 

My driving privileges expire tomorrow, so I will be without wheels until I can find the time to take local transportation from Boquete back to the border to try once again to exit and re-enter Panama for an extended 90 day driving privilege.  I intend to wait a minimum of 7 days until the Cubans clear out, and would recommend to others they consider this as well.  For their own peace of mind.  And whatever else,  maintain your calm and keep your opinions to yourself !   I consider this a lesson learned.   It's probably a good idea to proceed with purchasing a bus ticket from San Jose to David before approaching border agents for the next few weeks.

I eagerly await the opportunity to apply for my Panama drivers license!

Read more here: http://www.miamiherald.com/news/local/immigration/article44777433.html#storylink=c

My First Bad Border Experience

After nearly nine years of living half-in and half-out of Panama, I finally decided to stay here permanently.  I returned from the states in mid-August and obtained legal residency.  I have a temporary Panamanian ID, valid for one year, and the permanent one arrives in the next few months. I've avoided excessive border hops because of my frequent trips to the states, but nevertheless have found myself making 1-2 runs a year to renew my 90-day driving privileges on a US drivers license. Once my permanent ID arrives, I will be able to apply for a Panamanian driver's license.

Yesterday, on day 88 of my return, I headed to Paso Canoas for what I was hoping would be the last exit and re-entry to update my driving privileges. With two days to spare, I stamped out of Panama as I always do, and walked over to Costa Rica to sign in at immigration there.   I noticed there were an unusually large number of people standing around the waiting area and along the side of the building, but attributed it to being November, which is a holiday month in Panama.  I remember thinking, "Wow, there are a lot of Panamanians leaving this weekend."  Then I noticed several policemen in the area, and black & yellow tape cordoning off the immediate area in front of immigration's entry and exit windows.  Figuring there must be some remodeling going on somewhere, I walked up to one of the policemen and asked where the entry had been moved to.  He instructed me to climb under the tape and walk up to the windows.

I approached an empty window and handed over my completed immigration form and passport to the waiting agent.  A very arrogant young man immediately demanded to see my airline ticket corroborating a flight from Costa Rica to the USA.  I provided him with a ticket from Panama City, Panama to the USA in December, right before Christmas.  He refused to accept it.  He stated he needed proof of my exit from Costa Rica, not from Panama.  I explained to him that I resided in Panama and planned on staying less than 24 hours in Costa Rica, as is customary for Costa Rican or Panamanian expats needing to update visas or driving privileges from either side of the border.  

My clarification was useless with this particular agent, and he advised me if I wanted to enter Costa Rica, I would have to purchase a $ 20 bus ticket from San Jose, Costa Rica (which is 8 hours from the border) to David, Panama.  I questioned the need for it, because in nine years of crossing back and forth, I've never had to provide this.  I explained again that I resided in Panama, had driven to the border, and would be returning in my private vehicle that was about 6 blocks away.   He insisted a bus ticket was required. I commented that I found this policy objectionable as it obviously benefited the Costa Rican bus company and took advantage of tourists who might want to just shop for a few hours.  (About a year ago, Costa Rica implemented a $7.00 exit tax for people crossing from Costa Rica into Panama, and everyone has had to just accept the imposition.  Panama has not levied any similar fees.)  

The agent informed me  I could not enter Costa Rica without it, so I left to buy the ticket.  About 20 minutes later,  I returned with the bus ticket.  The agent immediately called his supervisor and I was informed by her that I would not be allowed to enter Costa Rica because I had been rude to her agent and accused him of promoting the bus company's business interest.  I denied this and repeated exactly what I had said, but I might as well have spit in the wind.   I was told to go around the corner to enter a door on the side the building.  It opened into a small, windowless office with one desk and a side chair.  There were two Costa Rican immigration police with bullet proof vests standing by the desk.  I was instructed to come in and sit down.  One of the police officers held a typed NCR form in his hand.  I hesitated.  Visions of a Costa Rican interrogation and/or jail cell popped into my head, as ridiculous as that may seem.... They insisted I enter.  I entered but remained standing and asked if I was being detained or arrested.  They never answered, but then the two of them together directed me to leave with them.  I insisted they tell me where we were going first.  And I repeated my question about being detained.  One of the officers cracked a slight smile and responded that I wasn't being detained. The other one then explained that I was being sent back to Panama and they would accompany me because otherwise Panama wouldn't receive me.

So, for the next 6 blocks or so, I walked between two police officers in riot gear back to Panama immigration and was not given possession of my passport.  I was ushered into the back of the Panama immigration office (which thankfully had windows) and was again instructed to be seated.  No one spoke to me, but one of the officers handed my passport to a Panamanian immigration official who examined it for five minutes with a magnifying glass.  After viewing the multiple entry/exit visa, he requested my temporary ID and then examined it under the magnifying glass for another two minutes.  Eventually he stamped over the exit notation in the passport and I saw that they had annulled it.   I was  then allowed  to leave.  It was 7:30 pm and dark, so I headed to Hostal La Morenita and booked a room for the night.  The next morning I considered trying to cross the border again, but noticed my two escorts from the night before were inside the office and decided to give up and go home without updating my passport status.

What I subsequently learned sheds a lot of light on the rationale for my treatment at the border and probably explains why my innocent but irritated and ill-thought comment got me into the trouble it did.    A kind Panamanian whose ear I bent at the hostal advised me  next time to tell the border agent I plan to stay 3 days in Golfito and to speak English.   Apparently there is a big push to generate as much revenue as possible in Costa Rica from people who pass through the country.  Additionally, Costa Rica has their own little "Cuban Crisis" going on.  Because I'd been taking a respite from the local news for the last few weeks, I walked right into it clueless.  I will explain and elaborate in the next post.

A Better Paso Canoas Experience

Everyone has been talking about Hostal La Morenita, the newest lodging option in Paso Canoas, so I decided to explore for myself this weekend.  I was more than pleasantly surprised.  Prices are in keeping with other options in town,  yet you get so much more for those same prices. 

The facility is clean, has comfortable, common outside space and social areas, modern, efficient air conditioning, comfortable beds, wi-fi, and even a small internet cafe with late model hardware and monitors.  Meals are prepared by the owners, Ricardo and Nilka, and I thoroughly enjoyed my favorite typical Panamanian plate---Corvina al ajillo, patacones, mixed green salad, and an ice cold cerveza Atlas. Although it's being called a hostal, La Morenita is much nicer than hostals I've visited in Panama City.  The rooms are in line with those of Cabinas Romy, in the center of Paso Canoas, however La Morenita's fixtures are much nicer and there is no comparison regarding atmosphere and service. La Morenita is heads above in that aspect as well.

Located about 3 km outside the downtown area, in a town called Canoas Arriba, La Morenita is located on the Panama side of a road that divides it from Costa Rica.  This proved a great advantage for me, because I was able to drive my car all the way to the hostal.  When staying previously in Costa Rican facilities, I couldn't take my car across.  I had to park somewhere on the Panama side and either hail a taxi or shoulder my heavy bags back and forth. In addition to less than pleasant downtown accommodations, I always worried about how safe my car was. This time it wasn't a concern.

Others have remarked on how pleasant and service-oriented the owner Ricardo and his wife are.  I can only agree with everything that has been said about them. Last night Ricardo introduced me to some locals who had stopped in. We all enjoyed good conversation and a pleasant visit outside on the terrace. Jokingly, I told Ricardo I wanted Corvina al ajillo and patacones for breakfast. After having two cups of delicious cafe con leche, this morning. I was served the following breakfast, which I inhaled almost as quickly as last night's dish.  

The only less than pleasant aspect of the entire visit was discovering I had a flat front tire in the morning.  I had noticed a slight vibration when I was driving into David, but after stopping at a gas station and putting air in all tires, the guy there assured me all was well.  Apparently I had ran over something, though.  Even this was easily handled by Ricardo, who possessed an air compressor and inflated the tire so I could drive to a tire store.

I am thrilled to have "found" this place,  recommended by expats who've been here before me.  I selfishly hesitated a bit regarding publishing this post, because I know that the quality of the accommodations coupled with the pleasant atmosphere and excellent cooking will make La Morenita highly sought by those who frequent Paso Canoas for shopping or visa runs.  I discussed with Ricardo my fears that his creation, open for business for only six months, will become so popular that demand will raise prices and bring about other changes.  He responded that he is hoping to be able to keep prices fair and maintain the service quality with full occupancy.  One can certainly hope that remains the case.  

If you are planning a trip to Paso Canoas in the near future, this would be my first recommendation, bar none.   Where in the past I absolutely dreaded going to Paso Canoas, this time I sort of wished I had more time to spend there. 

The Paso Canoas Experience

For many expats who either can't afford or can't commit to establishing formal residency here in Panama, a relatively painless alternative has always been available. Referred to as border hopping or border runs, the activity involves going to the "frontera" of Panama with Costa Rica and following a simple process.    Costa Rican expats follow the same process, only in reverse, and on any given day, even friendships and networking sometimes happens amongst the multiple participants from either or both sides. In general, border authorities respond benignly to these procedures, provided the individuals presenting appear respectable, reasonably affluent and harmless.

Essentially what happens is a person whose visa is about to expire [from either country] signs out of the country they are living in,  signs into the other country at the border, spends a few hours shopping and having lunch in the neighboring country, then wraps up the excursion, signs out of the neighboring country and then re-enters the country they live in with a new visa that usually lasts 3-6 months.   

Apparently, the rules changed about 2-3 months ago.  Word has it there's a new immigration chief at the border, and an official mandate was issued requiring that people in the above situation spend at least 24 hours out of their respective country before re-entering.   Additionally, new documents to prove economic stability are being demanded before border personnel will grant re-entry. A friend from the USA, after spending the night in a one-star hotel [the best hotel in Paso Canoas], was required to provide a return airline ticket to the USA,  show she had $500 cash on her person, show a credit card and statement indicating available balance on the card, and provide a copy of her personal bank statement before being allowed back into Panama.  

Because of these changes, I decided a few days ago to investigate the accommodations in Paso Canoas.  The most expensive lodging I found was Cabinas Romy, located in the center of town on the Costa Rican side.  The rate for one person in a room with one queen bed, low season, is $28.  This includes wifi and air conditioning, but there is no hot water.  The rooms are clean but very basic.  On the day I went, the hotel personnel were barely accommodating.  

Cabinas Romy, above, is where my friend stayed. She reports an unfortunate incident with the evening receptionist. She left for dinner, and when she returned her room key broke off in the lock as she was attempting to open the door. The receptionist initially refused to help her, stating he was alone in the office. She asked what he suggested be done, as she had no intention of remaining outside all night. He harshly blamed her for "incorrectly unlocking the door", and told her she'd have to pay for calling in a locksmith.  She asked to speak with the hotel owner or manager. Her request was denied. At that point she snapped photos of the lock & key with her cell phone, and threatened to go to the police. The receptionist reluctantly relented, obtained tools, removed the key, allowed her access to her room, and gave her a replacement key. 

Right next door to the Cabinas Romy, is a smaller location called Cabinas Hilda. Rooms there run about $12 for one person.  When I was investigating, I was unable to see the interior of a room because they were all occupied, but I did snap this outside photo. The facility didn't seem much different from the Cabinas Romy at less than half the price.  The receptionist was pleasant. 

Also next door to Cabinas Romy, on the opposite side, is a small hotel and restaurant called the Interamericano.  I was told rooms there also run about 

$ 12 for one person.  I didn't explore the rooms, but did eat in the restaurant and enjoyed a great meal and cerveza for about $8.  

Just outside of town, about a 5 minute drive into Costa Rica, is a hotel called Los Higuerones, which comes well-recommended by other bloggers.  I called to inquire about low season rates, and was told the rate was $36 for one person. I didn't go to explore. It isn't easily accessible to shopping and restaurants, and requires driving or a taxi to get there.  My friend didn't want to travel outside the town, so she also deferred on this recommendation. 

To summarize, the times they are a changin' at the frontera, and many expats will have to either adapt to the changes or commit to legitimizing their residency.  Guess this sort of thing happens when too many people get wind of a good thing, and business minds smell a way to make a profit.