Jan 20, 2018
Sep 25, 2017
Beautiful Downtown Boquete
The rains have been heavy in Boquete since May, with July and August feeling more like October and November. Lloyd Cripe's Boquete Weather website has reported total Boquete rainfall through August 2017 as running somewhere between 78 inches and 212 inches, depending upon the focus area. Since there are no gauges for the Alto Boquete area, I can't speak for my neighborhood, except to say it sure feels more like 212 inches than 78 inches! We're about level with Jaramillo Abajo, though, so I'd wager a guess that we've received somewhere around 140 inches. (Perhaps I should contact him and offer to monitor rainfall data for next year...) Here's the link to that website should you want to check it out yourself.
http://www.boqueteweather.com/watchers/bww_update_091917.html
Bottom line, the worst is yet to come. However, when I think about Houston and Florida and the Caribean Islands, I realize that things could be a lot worse and I need to be thankful for having electricity, running water, and a dry house to come home to. At least the majority of the time!
Construction is at an all time high in Boquete, despite the rains and inclement weather. Some of it is preparation for installation of the new water system, and some is due to business centers and generalized expansion. All the downtown roads have been torn up and there are ruts and potholes and puddles and traffic and rocks everywhere. Panamanians don't believe in driving normal speed over roadways that aren't completely level and paved, so traffic slows to 2-5 mph with vehicles weaving in and out of the oncoming lanes when it means they can avoid running over a tiny bump or getting a splash of muddy water on their Hyundai tires. Funny thing---they recklessly speed along the David highway when they should exercise caution, but exercise undue caution if they think a bump might "rattle" their auto's suspension. Got to get one's priorities straight, I imagine...
For the curious who believe a picture is worth a thousand words, I offer the following:
Wondering what things will be like for the November festivities and annual parade. Or for the January Feria de las Flores y el Café. Who knows. Maybe it will be fixed by then, but it seems to be a major undertaking and only a minimal time distance away. We shall see. Also worth mentioning, although I failed to take photos---Los Naranjos is a huge mess, as well. There are detours to get to Cafe Ruiz, and the mud and yuck is obscene. Hate to say it, but Boquete is currently not the scenic spot it's known for. The end result will be well worth it, but this "ugly hair" stage is pretty bad. If I didn't live here, I certainly wouldn't come for the November parade or the 2018 Feria. Just sayin'...
Maybe things will be better by the Jazz Festival in February.
http://www.boqueteweather.com/watchers/bww_update_091917.html
Bottom line, the worst is yet to come. However, when I think about Houston and Florida and the Caribean Islands, I realize that things could be a lot worse and I need to be thankful for having electricity, running water, and a dry house to come home to. At least the majority of the time!
Construction is at an all time high in Boquete, despite the rains and inclement weather. Some of it is preparation for installation of the new water system, and some is due to business centers and generalized expansion. All the downtown roads have been torn up and there are ruts and potholes and puddles and traffic and rocks everywhere. Panamanians don't believe in driving normal speed over roadways that aren't completely level and paved, so traffic slows to 2-5 mph with vehicles weaving in and out of the oncoming lanes when it means they can avoid running over a tiny bump or getting a splash of muddy water on their Hyundai tires. Funny thing---they recklessly speed along the David highway when they should exercise caution, but exercise undue caution if they think a bump might "rattle" their auto's suspension. Got to get one's priorities straight, I imagine...
For the curious who believe a picture is worth a thousand words, I offer the following:
Wondering what things will be like for the November festivities and annual parade. Or for the January Feria de las Flores y el Café. Who knows. Maybe it will be fixed by then, but it seems to be a major undertaking and only a minimal time distance away. We shall see. Also worth mentioning, although I failed to take photos---Los Naranjos is a huge mess, as well. There are detours to get to Cafe Ruiz, and the mud and yuck is obscene. Hate to say it, but Boquete is currently not the scenic spot it's known for. The end result will be well worth it, but this "ugly hair" stage is pretty bad. If I didn't live here, I certainly wouldn't come for the November parade or the 2018 Feria. Just sayin'...
Maybe things will be better by the Jazz Festival in February.
Mar 15, 2017
Panamanian Immigration Policies
Haven't been in the mood to blog for some time. Got quite involved in the US general election and then quite depressed with its outcome. Reserved my ranting and raving for facebook and had nothing additional or positive to post. I figure enough disenchanted citizens will be jumping Ship USA as is, and have just been hoping we get the liberals and democrats here in Boquete. Lord knows we don't need any more Trump supporters. Many are returning home, and my best wishes accompany them!
As a result of the new administration's attitudinal changes toward immigrants and foreign visitors, a backlash has been brewing abroad. Panama is no exception. I expected it would happen. The primary impact is occurring at the fronteras as immigration officials tighten down on perpetual tourists. But I'm also hearing stories of unpleasant encounters with Panamanian traffic police over routine, previously overlooked driving issues. Just yesterday, someone who knows someone I know had their car confiscated when they forgot to take their driver's license along on a short run into David. In an area replete with forgetful retirees, this sort of matter used to be handled with patience and tolerance. Usually, the driver would be stopped and allowed to call a friend to meet them and drive their car home. This time the rules were strictly enforced. The driver was ticketed, the car towed, an it took a full day and about $250 to locate the car and get possession of it back. What goes around comes around, and I was fearing we would see changes in attitudes here as well.
Today, the US Embassy sent out an email to all expat residents and "wannabe residents" in Panama. It discusses a tightening of immigration policies here in Panama and addresses frequently asked questions newbies might have. I've done a cut and paste below:
U.S. Embassy in Panama
Message for U.S. Citizens
March 15, 2017
The U.S. Embassy in Panama would like to inform all U.S. Citizens in Panama that on March 6th 2017, the Panamanian Immigration Authority (Servicio Nacional de Migracion-SNM) announced new guidance for Panamanian immigration officials on the enforcement of pre-existing regulations. According to the SNM, immigration officials have been instructed to be stricter about the enforcement of the regulation that foreigners entering Panama with tourist status prove that they are in fact entering Panama as tourists and not residing in Panama. Since the announcement, the Consular Section has received many questions from U.S. citizens about this new guidance. Below are the most frequently asked questions along with the responses the Consular Section received from the SNM. Should you have further questions, please reach out to the SNM directly via phone at 507-1800 or visit their website at:http://www.migracion.gob.pa
In order to re-enter Panama on tourist status, does a U.S. Citizen need to return to their country of origin (the country from which they came into Panama) or can they return from a third-country (example: Costa Rica)?
Answer: In the new guidance SNM does not specify if the tourist needs to return his/her country of origin. What is being implemented is that, in most cases, the person needs to leave Panama for a minimum of 30 days before reentering as a tourist.
In order for a person to re-enter Panama on tourist status, what is the minimum amount of time the person needs to spend outside of Panama?
Answer: The new requirement that is being implemented by SNM in reference to time spent out of Panama is a minimum of 30 days before applying for admission, in most cases.
In order for a person to re-enter Panama on mariner visa status, what is the minimum amount of time the person needs to spend outside of Panama.
Answer: According to SNM, mariner visas are valid for 90 days and must be renewed on the 90th day, or the day before, from the date of the previous mariner visa stamp. Mariner visas can only be renewed once before the visa- holder needs to exit Panama. The amount of time the person with the mariner visa needs to stay outside of Panama is not specified by SNM.
If entering Panama on tourist status, does the method of entry need to match the method of exit (i.e. can a U.S. Citizen enter Panama on a plane and use as proof of exit evidence that they own a boat in Panama and plan to exit via boat)?
Answer: The method of entry and exit into and out of Panama does not have to be the same so long as the entries and departures are met legally by using established Ports of Entry - land, maritime or air and admitted by a Panamanian immigration officer.
Do U.S. Citizens with legal Panamanian residency status also require a roundtrip ticket when entering Panama?
Answer: No. A foreigner with legal residence in Panama does not need to show proof of exit from Panama.
Is a person applying for Panamanian residency required to stay in Panama for the entire duration of time required to complete the residency process? If so, what happens if the process takes more than the allotted six months for tourist status.
Answer: If the person has an ID that shows that his/her residency is in process, the person is fine to leave and return to Panama. If there is no ID, then the person should exit as a tourist (i.e., before the sixth month approaches).
How long does the FBI Identification Record process, required for purposes of obtaining residency in Panama, take? Can this process be expedited?
Answer: For information on the FBI identification record process, individuals may visit https://www.fbi.gov/services/ cjis/identity-history-summary- checks. According to the FBI website, the current turnaround estimate for these records is 12 to 14 weeks plus the amount of time the results may take to arrive in the mail. Currently there is no option to receive the response electronically. For questions on this topic, individuals may call (304) 625-5590 or write an email to identity@ic.fbi.gov
Tourists are only allowed to drive in Panama for 90 days. Is there an exception for this given that tourists are allowed to stay in Panama for 180 days?
Answer: According to the Transit authority (http://www.transito.gob.pa/ sites/default/files/ reglamento_decreto_640..pdf Artículo 110) foreigners that enter Panama as tourists are not permitted to obtain Panamanian drivers’ licenses and are only allowed to drive with a foreign license for 90 days. There are no exceptions to this rule.
Can SNM waive the FBI Identification Record process if a person does not exit Panama for two years? If so, would there be an exception to the 180 day stay limit for tourists for a person trying to obtain this waiver?
Answer: If a person stays in Panama for more than two years then the FBI requirement does not apply. The waiver of the FBI requirement applies to those people that stay in Panama two years, without exiting. In these cases, a fine is paid by the person for overstaying their tourist visa and the person is only required to present a PNM police record rather than the FBI check.
In all fairness I must admit that other factors probably also played into Panama's determination to implement established immigration policies. The country has suffered (along with Costa Rica) surges of refugees and immigrants fleeing war-torn and repressive governments in Latin America, Africa and the Middle East. The majority of those passing through the isthmus were heading to the USA. The numbers mounted as Obama was completing his last term and in anticipation of a stricter stance with the incoming president. Matters were complicated when Nicaragua refused to allow passage through its territories on the journey. Costa Rica became backlogged with refugees and then tightened it's border and the domino effect started to hit Panama.
It's not a good time to relocate to Panama unless you plan to do so legally and pay the associated costs. A conservative estimate of government and legal fees for a pensionado visa is about $2000, in my humble opinion. The pensionado visa is the easiest and cheapest way to establish residency, to the best of my (inexpert) knowledge. It requires an FBI background check, miscellaneous filings with local government agencies, and takes about 6 months to complete.
My understanding of current Panamanian immigration policy is that a tourist visa is granted for only 3 months instead of 6 months as previously practiced, and upon leaving Panama, a tourist has to wait 30 days prior to re-entering again as a tourist. I admit I am somewhat out of the loop regarding what is actually being implemented at the borders, but a television video from 2 weeks ago reported that 300 Venezuelans were turned back at the border because their passport activity was suspicious for perpetual tourist border-hopping practices.
I guess all good things must end someday, as the song goes.
Nov 19, 2016
2nd Annual Art Expo and Mes de la Patria Celebration at Ricardo Perez in David
Last night friends and I attended the second annual art expo at Ricardo Perez which was held in commemoration of the Mes de la Patria en Panamá. Some 33 local and international artists plus 11 photographers participated in the event. Guests were treated to music performed by the Cuerpo de Bomberos de Chiriqui and folk dancers. Over 100 paintings and photographs were displayed.
I failed to check the battery reading on my camera before heading out, and it unfortunately died at the very beginning of the event. I only captured a few photos, which are posted.
The art works will remain displayed in the Richardo Perez showroom until the end of November, so be sure to stop in and browse before then. You will be pleased you did. Credit should go out to Antonio Singh for his efforts in organizing the event.
Sep 28, 2016
Boquete's Changing Faces
It's been several months since I've posted anything about Boquete. I'm ashamed to admit US politics has captured more of my attention than merited. But it's also depressed me so much that I'm returning to a local focus for therapy. Boquete is growing and changing. These photos were taken today from the pedestrian bridge over the new highway by the CEFATI bldg. One view is toward Bajo Boquete and the other is looking toward Alto Boquete. The new Alto Boquete Condos are seen center left in the second view. For years the structures sat idle but lately a lot of progress is being seen. The plan is for several buildings and a canyon condo community.
Another new structure (about a year old, I believe) is the downtown market. There are still many unoccupied spaces, but the building was designed to house not only vegetable and fruit stands, but also artisan kiosks and service businesses. Currently there is a beauty shop and a few clothing vendors housed there, but it hasn't yet approached it's full potential. The Central Park Cafe, which used to be an unsightly hole in the wall adjacent the park has been overhauled and has a more pleasant, glassed-in aspect. The new market is located in the same space as the old one, diagonal to Romero Supermarket and to the right of the municipal offices.
The other major change Boquete is undergoing is the implementation of the new potable water and sewage treatment system approved by President Varela for $25 million. Ground has been broken in a significant way downtown as new pipes are being laid and land is being leveled.
In my neighborhood, a lot on my street is being dug up and leveled for installation of a large water tank.
And last but not least, the Mayor just announced that a new Panamonte Bridge will be constructed in the not too distant future. The paperwork and bidding is in progress at this time.
A Word About Snakes
It's forever being said by experts that one has a better chance of being struck by lightning in Panama than by being bitten by a poisonous snake. Perhaps this is true, but to date my "close encounters of the reptile kind" have been more frequent than those of the lightning kind. Take this beautiful fellow featured above....
It was 10:15 am on a weekday and the sun was shining brightly. My two cats were up and about---one in the outside entryway peering in the front screen door, and the other inside peering out the front screen door. Both were poised and ready to pounce. I smiled briefly at what I perceived to be a sisterly staring contest.
I was expecting a friend any minute, so I opened the door to go out and unlock the yard gate. My doing so pushed the outside kitty away from the front entrance just as this large coral snake slithered underneath the door to the spot she had been occupying. Although she headed after it, my screams frightened both cats and thankfully, they took off. I seized my trusty camera---always nearby---and snapped this pic. It was a good thing I did, because in the time it took to get a male neighbor's attention, the snake had disappeared. Two brave men with machetes responded to my calls. They peered into and around nearby plants. No sign of a snake. I provided photographic proof of what I had seen, so the three of us persisted until the culprit was located behind a piece of patio furniture.
I wish we could have left it alone to live another lifetime, but the neighborhood is full of cats and dogs and small children, and our houses aren't all that far apart. The men killed it and buried in in the yard. (Something about burying it is supposed to detract other snakes from coming around....an old wives tale, I suppose.) I felt a bit guilty, as it was a beautiful snake. But I had learned my lesson from a previous experience.
About a year earlier, I was sitting with a guest in the living room when I noticed what I thought was an earthworm crawling along the baseboard. I grabbed the broom and dustpan to sweep it up, but when I got closer it reared it's head and curled into strike position. Realizing it was a snake, I abandoned the hand-held dustpan and swept it into a shovel. My friend urged me to kill it, but it was so small I couldn't do it. I took it outside to examine it closely before releasing it in the back lot. After my friend left I did an internet search to find snakes that had markings resembling my infantile visitor. The only snake that came close---actually it was a true match---was the Bushmaster. Right down to the two-toned color of it's head. Sometimes I still worry it may be living somewhere in that back lot...
It's hard to find precise information regarding snakes in Panama, but most sources will cite between 125 and 145 species of snakes in this country. Of that number, only 25 species are considered venomous. They fall into three family groupings; pit vipers, corals, and sea snakes.
Sea snakes are rarely dangerous to humans unless caught and handled. Their venom is a potent neurotoxin, but they reserve it for small fish and other prey.
Coral snakes are generally timid and inoffensive unless provoked. They are burrowing snakes and usually don't grow longer than 30 inches. Other snakes resemble the coral snake but are completely innocuous to humans. Here is a wikipedia photo I found of a kingsnake [serpiente rey] that shares the same colors as a coral snake. Their coloring is similar but the bands alternate as red, black, yellow or white, black, red. A mnemonic used to distinguish between the two is "Red touches black, friend of Jack. Red touches yellow can kill a fellow"
Unfortunately authorities always warn that this rhyme only applies to snakes native to North America and that coral snakes in Central and South America can have a variety of patterns and colors, including the red-touching-black pattern of the harmless North American kingsnake.
Pit vipers are the snake family most responsible for bites to humans in Panama. Around 2000 cases of snakebite are reported annually. The province that reports the most is Veraguas, which averages around 500 a year. Vipers are aggressive, even after having eaten and while molting. Several expats have reported sighting pit vipers in their homes, garages, or terraces.
Probably the most prevalent venomous viper reported in Boquete and surrounding areas is the fer-de-lance. (Bothrops asper) Locals call it "Equis" or "Terciopelo" or "Barba amarilla". It is responsible for about 95% of all snakebites in Panama. It's toxin is hemolytic and causes symptoms of hypotension, nausea, vomiting, severe pain, local necrosis and renal compromise. I have never seen one, but know people who have. One friend, living in a developed, upscale, gated community discovered a fer-de-lance coiled up in the corner of her sewing basket !
The other three vipers in Panama considered most dangerous to humans because of the potency of their venom are:
The eyelash viper (Bothriechis schlegelii), locally known as "Bocaracá", the bushmaster
(Lachesis stenophrys), locally known as "Verrugosa" or "Cascabel muda", and the hog-nosed viper (Porthidium nasutum) locally known as "Patoca". I will need to do additional research before commenting on their regional habitats, but all are found in humid, tropical forest areas, which include the provinces of Chiriqui, Veraguas, Cocle, and Panama Oeste.
May 1, 2016
Cuban Culmination?
Some of the 3,000 Cuban refugees that were stranded at the Paso Canoas border have been transferred to Gualaca, where they are being housed in local hostels and provided with medical attention as needed. Those transferred included pregnant women and children and other persons in more frail conditions.
Announcements have been made that the authorities are close to reaching some type of diplomatic arrangement for those 3,000 Cubans that are already in Panama. At the same time, Panama has taken stronger measures to stop the influx of illegals into Panama without actually implementing a border closure. President Varela announced on April 28th that new or additional refugees who enter Panama illegally will not be allowed to participate in the process currently being negotiated for the 3,000 refugees already housed near the border. He stressed that Panama will implement a humanitarian effort to assist these detainees, but cannot continue functioning as a permanent logistical backup for illegal migration. As of that date, Cubans attempting to enter Panama illegally will be detained and returned. The news of this measure has reached Cuba, I am certain, as I viewed an internet video broadcast in Cuba addressing the topic. Since the announcement, it was calculated that only 100 additional Cubans have passed into Panama. They are currently under the control of SENAFRONT and the National Migration Service.
President Varela emphasized that Panama will offer whatever emotional or psychological support measures it can to additional migrants illegally crossing the border, but that these persons will have to leave and need to consider which country they wish to return to.
Apr 16, 2016
Long overdue update
Photo from Panama Canal Website
Wow...it's been nearly 2 months since my last post. A lot has been going on in the world. I've been so
busy following the news that I haven't had the time to sit down and actually
write about any of it.
The USA presidential primaries have been akin to a reality
show this year. The Republicans have taken a no-holds-barred approach to
political competition and no subject has been too personal to discuss during
televised debates. The rest of the world continues to enjoy
lots of laughs and endless amazement at just how arrogant, prejudiced, and base
we "Americans" are. The Democratic primaries are proceeding with a
little more dignity, but there seems to be a lot of disillusionment with voter
suppression issues and campaign rigging. Here in Panama the expat community seems just as divided
as the folks back home.
In Boquete there's definite evidence of the doomsday Christian immigratory wave. It can be perceived in the news pieces that are circulated on the local forums or via casual conversations overheard in public places. Or, sometimes it shows up even in direct conversation intended for a different heading. I recently learned many Boquete newbies believe that the general election in November will result in rioting and civil disorder sufficient for President Obama to declare martial law. The expectation is that subsequent to doing so, he will remain in office for an additional term "as he has desired all along" and that the US will become a dictatorship. (I find this incredulous, but would certainly take an Obama dictatorship over a Trump presidency if those were the only options.)
I've received some orientation to digital currency, as well as a variety of conspiracy theories.
In Boquete there's definite evidence of the doomsday Christian immigratory wave. It can be perceived in the news pieces that are circulated on the local forums or via casual conversations overheard in public places. Or, sometimes it shows up even in direct conversation intended for a different heading. I recently learned many Boquete newbies believe that the general election in November will result in rioting and civil disorder sufficient for President Obama to declare martial law. The expectation is that subsequent to doing so, he will remain in office for an additional term "as he has desired all along" and that the US will become a dictatorship. (I find this incredulous, but would certainly take an Obama dictatorship over a Trump presidency if those were the only options.)
I've received some orientation to digital currency, as well as a variety of conspiracy theories.
The Cuban refugee situation is intensifying.
Costa Rica mobilized 8,000 Cuban refugees from their borders to the USA
in the past year, at significant governmental cost. The country claims it
is unable to maintain this burden and has announced border closure. Costa Rica, on
April 15th, identified enforcement measures it plans to apply
regarding some 3000 Cuban migrants and 500 African / Asian migrants currently in
Paso Canoas wanting to traverse their country. They will detain them in
immigration centers and arrange for deportation. The same morning, Costa Rica transferred
about 200 people originating from Africa and Asia back onto Panamanian soil after having been
allowed to cross through Panama's border onto the Costa Rican side. Demonstrations along the Pan
American highway resulted, and a strong police presence is being maintained in front of
the immigration building there. One Cuban man who was interviewed by the
local TV channel stated, "Panama says it is helping us, and we are
grateful for having a roof over our heads, but the accommodations are inhuman.
We are just as repressed here as we were in Cuba." Considering they
have arrived en masse short on funds to maintain themselves and are being
provided with food, water, and shelter, I take exception to the comment.
But then, I'm not living under the same conditions. A high level CARITAS
worker in Panama interviewed by the local news station reported that Cubans who have reached Panama through Colombia are all reporting rough treatment from Colombian police and other officials who rob them of their cash.
They allegedly set out with money to care for themselves, but end up in
Panama with nothing after their travels through Colombia. Paso Canoas is a
small town that can be completely traversed on foot in 20 minutes. It has
few hotels. Pictures on the TV showed people living in tents under some
type of large concrete structure with a tin roof. The CARITAS worker also
mentioned Puerto Obaldía, another small town where other Cubans have entered Panama. She said the town consists of 600 people, but
800 Cubans have now arrived there. There
is one doctor to attend to the entire village, and the additional migrants
as well as the nearby comarca, have overwhelmed the delivery of health care there.
Cubans have been migrating to the US and other countries via Ecuador for a number of years. According to reports, Costa Rica has been passing 20,000 people a year through it's borders en route to "el norte". The current crisis began back in November of 2015 when Costa Rican police broke up
an illegal coyote ring that moved these people. Costa Rica arrested and incarcerated 12
individuals, which threw a huge wrench in the [illegal] system. Then in December, Nicaragua
closed it’s borders to the immigrants, and Costa Rica was stuck having to mobilize
8000 Cubans headed for the US. Costa
Rica struggled valiantly with the problem and resolved it, but the immigrants
keep coming. Seems the ball has finally
landed in Panama’s court and the outcome should be interesting. Panama’s vice-president, Isabel St. Malo, has emphasized Panama is concerned with
humanitarian issues and is implementing measures to provide these people with
attention while trying to work out international agreements.
The Orchid Feria, the Jazz Festival, and Boquete's 105th anniversary have
come and gone since my last post. The Orchid Festival was the same as
usual. The Jazz Festival was very expensive with shorter musical
performances. In comparison to the Panama City Jazz Festival, which attracts tens of thousands of attendees, at an average cost of $10 per ticket and integrates the local community, Boquete's Jazz Festival cost $70 a ticket, took place in Valle Escondido, and may have included a handful of wealthy token Panamanians. The event I attended was full of non-local, non-resident groupies. There was a pervasive
commerciality to the ambiance, and some gringo organizer kept bragging to me about the custom-made silver jewelry he was wearing. What a contrast to the rest of life down here.
The Boquete Anniversary celebrations lasted
a few days and included a cabalgata, typical and modern music in central park,
school gatherings, a contest to elect a festivities queen, and civic and
traditional performances. I only marginally participated this year, but
enjoyed the atmosphere and horse parade.
The Panama Papers scandal has changed things here in not so good a way. Panamanians are feeling any combination of embarrassed, ashamed, indignant, persecuted, defiant and/or perplexed. They are an exceedingly patriotic people who take any
criticism of their country personally and are very anxious that the scandal not be a label for the country. A lot of things are going on internally, and the international press is also saturated with information about the matter, so I have little motivation to write more at this time. Perhaps in a later post. Suffice it to say that Panama is feeling the international pressure to comply with the automatic data interchange system established by the OCDE. Though highly resistant, someone recently sent me an article out of France indicating Panama has relented. I haven't seen the same announcement locally, however.
Lastly, the Canal Expansion is close to being opened. The canal is currently in a testing and final touch phase, but the end is very near!
Feb 21, 2016
A Paso Canoas Lodging Alternative
Most people would agree that Paso Canoas isn't exactly a vacation hot spot. But many expats still go there for a variety of reasons. After playing the tourist game for more years than I care to admit, I'm no longer obligated to make these trips, but they've sort of become a quarterly routine for me and I still like to regularly shop there. I headed out two days ago and made my first stop at La Morenita as usual to drop off the car and check in. Vilka greeted me warmly and then with a chagrinned expression said she had hoped I wouldn't be showing up this month. Apparently the hostal was full and there wasn't even a spare sofa to offer me. She explained that the stranded Cubans had filled up the place and she was under government contract to give them priority lodging. She expected things to lighten up in March. In her usual, attentive fashion though, she called a friend who was able to put me up at their hotel. She said the name of the place was Las Canarias, and it was in the town center.
Having a good idea of what central Paso Canoas hotels were like, I was less than enthusiastic about staying anywhere in town. But Vilka assured me the place was decent. When I got there I was pleasantly surprised. It's located about 300 meters south of the Panamanian immigration building on the road heading toward Puerto Armuellas. If you follow that road, you will pass a Pio Pio place, a Melo store, a Banco Nacional branch, and then reach a strip mall across from a gas station and automotive repair / tire place.
The hotel residencial Las Canarias is actually two facilities, one on the Panamanian side and one on the Costa Rican side of the border. The hotel on the Panamanian side, which is the one on the Puerto Armuellas road and is shown in the photo above, is the more expensive of the two. But the price differences are minimal ---around a $10 per room (and you get a lot more space for that $10).
I was warmly greeted by name at the reception desk when I walked in. The attendant spoke flawless English and I learned his father is Panamanian and his mother British, so he grew up with both languages. He considers himself Panamanian. My room charge was $50. There are available parking spots off the road in front of the hotel, and I was assured there is a watchman at night. The hotel itself is upstairs over the strip mall. Downstairs, next to the hotel entrance, is a small coffee shop.
I asked about nearby restaurants for a more substantial meal and learned that their Costa Rican facility, located 1.5 blocks away, offered home-cooked typical dishes, and so I decided to head there for dinner after some shopping.
The rooms are clean, spacious, and nicely decorated. A standard room comes with two queen beds, private bath, air conditioning, cable television, hot water with great water pressure, and a small seating area. There is a spacious and comfortable lobby as well, with numerous magazines to peruse. Compared to equally priced other downtown locations, this place has it hands down.
After shopping, I headed over to the Costa Rican facility for dinner. When I walked in, there was an attractive lady sitting at one of the tables who greeted me and asked me if I was "la señora Charlotte." She told me the attendant at the other building had called to tell her I'd be coming. She asked me what I'd like to eat and said she could offer me fish filet, pork chops, chicken, or beef with a salad and rice, beans, a "casado" or patacones. I ordered fish with salad and patacones and ice cold Imperial, a Costa Rican beer that I like much more than any of the Panamanian brands. The food was delicious, the service excellent, and $10 covered everything, including tax and tip. The next morning I chose to eat there again instead of in the downstairs coffee shop. There is no menu. You simply tell the cook what you want and she prepares it for you. I had a ham, cheese and onion omelette with ripe plantains and natilla (a Costa Rican cultured cream) on the side, plus a huge cup of local coffee. The meal was $ 8.50 including tax and tip.
At the Costa Rican facility, parking is off road and enclosed and roofed. I didn't ask to see a room there, however as I was leaving I looked into one being cleaned and found it acceptable, but much smaller and plainer than the one I stayed in on the Panama side. To my way of thinking, the extra $10 is worth it. Here are some photos of the Panamanian facility's entrance and lobby areas as well as a photo of my room.


They also offer a deluxe suite that has a jacuzzi tub, king size bed, small refrigerator and sound system. The charge for the suite is $ 100 per night.
For additional photos or information, the link to their facebook page is below:
https://www.facebook.com/Hotel-Residencial-Las-Canarias-340456312712255/
Below are
photos of the location, entrance, and lobby / restaurant facilities at the
Costa Rican Las Canarias location.
It's not easy to find decent lodging in this small border town. I've tried several. Prices don't vary all that much. For the same room rates, you could do much worse. Even if you were to pay more, you won't find locations better than either La Morenita or Las Canarias. And nothing beats their customer service. Here's hoping things don't change anytime soon.
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