An Evening with Friends in Santiago

Spent two days in Santiago with a friend who was celebrating her birthday last Friday night.   It was a small, intimate gathering of Panamanian professionals associated with the university in Santiago.    We were entertained by two accomplished musicians who were instructors there, --a guitarist and a violinist.  They played traditional Panamanian folk songs, which developed into a great sing and dance-a-long.  The percussionists were incidental musicians who came with their wives or girlfriends and later joined in.   The violinist has a radio show on Saturday mornings, which he dedicated to my friend for her birthday.   It was a thoroughly enjoyable evening---not half as sedate as it appears!



Children's Day

This Sunday is Children's Day in Panama.  I learned the holiday used to take place in November, but was recently changed to July 17th,  because there were already a lot of holidays in November, and July didn't have so many....Panamanian's are so practical when it comes to partying !!

Yesterday, Saturday afternoon,  I went to a child's birthday in La Colorada, a small town about 15 minutes outside Santiago.   There are two significant celebratory events in a Panamanian child's life--their first birthday,  and the 15th  birthday for girls or the 18th for boys.   This party was a first birthday party.   It was a very special event.  Half the town was there, a hall was rented, a sound system installed, and snacks, candy, toys, ice cream, cake and gifts galore were handed out for all the attendees.  Just about the time I thought things were wrapping up and it would be time to go, out came huge pots of food and we were all served full dinners.   The party lasted about 8 hours total and we arrived back in Santiago tired and ready to crash for the evening. 

The deafening noise didn't  record on the videos below, but I think these silent movies reflect the energy and good times, just the same. 

Day Hike in Caldera and then indigestion @ Papa Ricco's

A friend and I took a short day trip to Portrerillos and Caldera.  Ever since making that lost jaunt through the Caldera countryside several months ago,  I get frequent urges to go back, sit on the rocks, decompress, and contemplate.  That's how the day started out , and the photos below can illustrate the zen-like mood I had melded into by the time we headed back to Alto Boquete. 

By the time we got back into town, both of us were hungry and my friend was craving pizza.  So we stopped off at Papa Ricco's, close to my house.   Ricco was in rare form today and turned what should have been a pleasant dining experience into a gut wrenching, ulcer clutching, final patronage visit. 

The two of us arrived cheerful, mellow, friendly and chatty. The owner glared back at us from his kitchen. He asked a few unrelated questions about my friend's property, which was up for sale.  Unlike most pizza places, there were no hot pizzas in the oven, and no sliced pizza for purchase by in the warming racks.   My friend ordered pizza to go to take to her family, and we both ordered lasagna  served at the restaurant to whet our hearty appetites while the pizza baked.  We waited for a long time, and finished our sodas without sight of the pasta meals, nor salad or bread.  We were both beginning to tap our feet and wonder how much longer the food would take.  Finally, at my friend's urging, I got up and walked back to the order area to timidly ask precisely that.   Instead of a reassuring answer, I got a very aggressive, unpleasant, screaming, and inappropriate tirade from  the cook.   I was so upset and felt so put-down by some of his remarks that I actually wanted to leave immediately, without the meals we ordered.  My friend, having not heard his tirade from the next room, wanted to stay and get the pizza she ordered to go.  We stayed, but I did let Ricco know when he brought the food, that I felt his attitude & behavior were inconsistent with the situtation that prompted it, and that he made me feel upset enough to want to leave.  I spoke softly, but he again screamed at me,  this time with others present,   "Well just leave, then,  I don't give a damn!"    I stood up to go, but then considered my friend might get stuck with the entire bill.  I fought the urge and calmly repeated to him that asking how much longer the dish required to cook was not justification for being given sarcastic remarks about ""Shut up or eat it cold" nor being told he didn't give a damn if we stayed or left.  He eventually apologized, and I remained for my friend's benefit. The lasagna was overcooked and dry, and so were the garlic rolls.   I don't know if I will ever return.    Ricco is Boquete's  version of the  "Soup Nazi" characterized in Seinfeld.    If the food were good enough, as Seinfeld portrays with the show's character,  it might be different.  But in my mind it isn't the case and Ricco's cooking doesn't cancel out his caustic nature .  I've heard other people relate similar experiences with Ricco, but this was a first for me.  I wish him well with his temper.  Whew!    Go forewarned and speak at your own risk!

Panamanian Parking Meters

After traveling back and forth for 5 years, and actually living here for another 15 months, I just learned there are meter maids in David. But the fun part is that David doesn't have parking meters.  Lack of resources never stops anyone from thinking like the big guys in Panama. 

To the left is a scan of  David, Panama's version of a parking meter.  It's a public parking card.  Public parking is considered anything that isn't private; ie street curbs, designated store parking, etc.   Who would have known!  I was shopping with a Panamanian friend this weekend, and she enlightened me.  I had parked downtown and headed off without a second thought.

The way it works is thus:  People buy parking cards at designated kiosks in the downtown area.  Each card costs ten cents.  You buy as many cards as you think you will need.   Then, when you park in a public spot, you fill out one or more of the cards and leave it on the dash under the windshield. On the card, you fill in the date and time you parked the vehicle.  The first column is for month, second for date, third for hour and fourth for minutes.  Each card is worth 30 minutes of time.  As you can see by my card on the left,  I parked on 6/10/11 at 11:35 am, which gave me til 12:05 pm to remain without being cited.  If I planned to stay for an hour, I would have had to leave a second card in plain view for 12:05 pm, which would allow another half hour.   The honor system comes into play as far as the exact parking time is concerned.   Quite ingenious, don't you think?

Because you asked....

I've received several inquiries lately about what Boquete is like. A picture is worth a thousand words. 

Day Trip to Volcan

Took a drive to a tiny town just outside Volcan, to attend the 2nd annual Fine Arts Festival of the Highlands,  situated in the Casa Grade Resort in Bambito.  Missed an earlier art festival in Boquete a few weeks ago because I was still in California.    From photos I've seen of the Boquete event, it appeared to have primarily expat participant artists, whereas the Bambito event had only one expat participant, who specializes in digital photography, as opposed to painting.  I went to be inspired, and did come back with the motivation to break out my oils and get back into the struggle I always have with blank canvas.  

Other than the digital photography cards, for $ 2.00 each,  the prices on all artwork seemed exceedingly high.  And I didn't encounter much that seemed fresh, new, different, or sufficiently original in presentation to warrant the asking prices.  I did enjoy the show nonetheless, and I went for inspiration, not specifically to purchase.  I may have bought had I found anything that moved me.....There was one artist there,  (spoke excellent English), who used feathers as her canvas and painted minute, very detailed animals on bird feathers. I was in awe of her skill and patience.  But I couldn't really think of any place where a framed birdfeather with a painting of a jaguar on it would fit  in my house.   

It was a nice drive and escape, in any case.  The resort location was beautiful and tranquil.  Apparently the resort offers rock climbing, trout fishing, horseback riding, canopy treks and tubing on the river.  There's also an eco-spa and restaurant on the premises.  Lodging includes 20 suites with Zen bathrooms and private terraces.  Rates range from $ 69 per night to $ 152 per night in the off season, and from $ 127 per night to $ 186 per night in the high season. The resort also boasts a swimming pool,  a 200 capacity ballroom and a corporate event center.

I was most impressed, however, by the tree in the parking lot.  Reminded me of  northern California redwood country, but this tree was tropical, and not a redwood.  I never learned what type of tree it was, but plan to explore that again at a later date.

I also snapped a few photos of the surroundings into which the individual suites were situated.

Fruit Harvest

Arrived home to find several members of my garden in full fecundity, and am thrilled at the thought of  harvest.   Even my neighbor's mango tree was generous in it's contribution, having  thrown a stray limb over the fence for my pleasure. 

My own mango tree was not to be outdone, despite a rather vigorous shearing by the gardener several months ago.

There are three banana trees laden with fruit---one so heavy it had to set it's burden down...The other two are leaning in the same direction. 

And the surpise of all surprises.  After  planting three half-gallon sized citrus plants in 2008 that cost $ 1.50 each,  I'm learning their true identities !  The one on the left is a grapefruit, the one near the porch is a persian lime, and the one on the right is the orange.  They're all fruit bearing now,  and in another month or two I'll be reaping their rewards.   Life's good!

Sizing Up Santiago

Other than cruising through Santiago by bus en route to Panama City,  I've had little exposure to Panama's third largest city.   This weekend I stayed in the home of some lovely Panamanian women, and we visited several areas of the city, as well as a few surrounding towns.  The weather was hot with a capital "H".  It was a nice change from the cold, damp and windy climate Boquete was experiencing.  And there is so much more to the city than what is seen passing though on the Interamerican Highway.  I'm seriously considering relocation there.

Santiago offers several of the big stores found in David and Panama City; ie Do It Center, Super 99, El Machetazo, Casa Gala, several educational facilities,  and a few universities.  There are also private medical clinics and a public hospital.  What I didn't see was a blatant expat community.  In fact, while attending an international festival in the town center on Saturday evening, I specifically looked for a stereotypical European, Canadian, or United States transplant. I didn't see any.  I'm certain they are there, but they weren't easy to spot and that made me very happy.   I ran into many Panamanians who were very competent English speakers.  I wasn't looking for English-speaking Panamanians, but I quickly realized that I needed to be judicious when speaking English, because the odds were pretty good that the average man on the street would understand my comments.  Education in Santiago seems to be a priority.  Schools and centers of learning were prominent, and the buildings and grounds of the institutions were well-maintained.  They seemed to be a source of pride.   I'm thinking that if I can get past the heat, Santiago might be a serious relocation possibility.  I did find a small town I absolutely loved, and spent a good deal of time exploring real estate opportunities there, but acknowledged that I need to be in an urban area to assure exceptional internet and phone availability.  The outlying areas still aren't adequately serviced in this respect.  Without internet and phone/fax lines,  I can't work, so I'll probably need to sacrifice scenery for services.  Property values seemed  a little more reasonable,  but I found no great bargains in my search of Veraguas, either. 



San Francisco de la Montaña

The small pueblo of San Francisco de la Montaña had been suggested to me as a possible place to settle.   I've been looking for a small, undiscovered Panamanian town where I might be able to seamlessly slip into the community without drawing attention as a foreigner,  and without signalling others to follow.  This town has a lot of history and tradition.   Unfortunately, it didn't have the right feel for me,  but I thoroughly enjoyed our brief visit.   

These photos were taken in front of the 17th century church that is the town's main attraction.  The woodwork and altar inside were beautiful to behold, but unfortunately photos with flash aren't permitted and without flash, I couldn't capture any indoor images.   The church currently is undergoing restoration but remains fully functional as the community's center of worship. 

Guess who came to dinner?

After a weekend in Veraguas I arrived back in Boquete with lots of housekeeping left to do.   My venturing out on the back deck to get laundry started, though, lead a concerned neighbor to call out a cautionary "Watch out!"  He pointed to one of the poles supporting my deck roof.    This is what greeted my curious gaze: 

   

Apparently while I was away, a colony of black wasps came to play.  Called the fire department, because that's who takes care of these infestations in Boquete.  They came and managed to chase off [assasinate] most of the unwanted guests, but this evening all the stragglers returned and I now have a smaller colony nested for the night.  Called once more, but no one came.  Will need to try again tomorrow, I suppose.  

Summer in Boquete feels like Fall in San Francisco

It's been downright chilly in Boquete these past two weeks!  The wind has been howling and brutal as well.   I'm sitting at the computer wearing flannel PJ bottoms, fuzzy slippers, and  a fleece jacket [that Barbara brought me from Milwaukee] sipping hot herbal tea.   Reminds me of the way it feels in the SF Bay Area just before Halloween hits.   Where did I go wrong?  Is this really the tropics?

Las Olas

Perhaps my timing is off in posting these art reference photos I took at Las Olas beach.  But in deference to the tragedy of the recent earthquake and Tsunami in Japan, these are photos of a calm seascape in Chiriqui.  I post them for my sister, Barbara, who has returned to the snow and cold of the great lakes region.  May they burn in her memory and keep her focussed on returning next February!

Another Thing I Love About Boquete

At 7 pm on a Saturday evening, I developed symptoms of an acute and uncomfortable infection.  Having previously tried getting antibiotics without a prescription from local pharmacies, I knew better than to even try this time.   I was aware the condition would get progressively worse in the next few hours, having been through it all before.

I called Dr. Chen, a general practitioner who has seen me before.  Apologetically, I explained my circumstances and asked what he suggested I do.  Unhesitatingly, he told me to come to his office.  He was waiting for me when I arrived 10 minutes later, examined me, prescribed an antibiotic, provided updated medical teaching re: the condition and treatment, then sent me on my way.  He told me to never worry about calling if I needed something.  He said he kept the office open until 9 pm every night, and if I had an urgent need past that time, to just ring the door bell outside the office or call him.  I now have his cell phone number as well. The consult was $ 10.  The pharmacy charged me $ 13.00 for the antibiotic, after providing a senior discount I never asked for.

Situation SOLVED in less than 30 minutes, for under the cost of a co-pay at Kaiser in the states.

Boquete Jazz Festival

Well, the Boquete Jazz Festival has come and gone and seems to have been a success.  I was mildly offended by the donation scalpers in central park on Sunday, though.  Local announcements stated there was a free concert in the park from 11 am to 3 pm as a gift to the community.  But in actuality,  concert-goers were accosted from all angles and donations aggressively requested. 

I arrived during a lull in the performances.  Immediately upon setting foot in the park, --like mosquitos attracted to a warm body at twilight,--- the hawkers alighted and shoved plastic pitchers in my face.   I mentioned it would be nice to hear some music first, and one of the collectors snapped, "Well, it's been going on all morning!  I remarked I just arrived and hadn't heard any jazz yet. 

The Sunday performance was a wrap up  to several appearances musicians made at local restaurants. (Places are too costly for a lot of locals to attend.)  It was a "gift to the community",  but what any curious Panamanian or Ngobe attendee observed were  gray-haired hipsters in jeweled chains & bracelets, with silver-studded hats, carrying plastic pitchers and asking for money. 

The atmosphere was quiet and restrained the short while I remained.  Not sure if it was because the music was unfamiliar, the location was sub-optimum, or if it was because of the people hawking donations.   Whatever it was, it wasn't anything to rave about. 

The after party at Las Ruinas, on the other hand, was fantastic.   The place was swinging, the music superb, and the crowd delightful.  Donations were requested there, as well, but it was done tactfully, at the end of magnificent performances by very accomplished musicians, and I couldn't wait to drop my money into the pitcher.   My feeling is that they "Let the free [Central Park] concert  be free," and only collect in the other locales.   But that's just me...

Snapped a few photos during the Las Ruinas after-party and jam, but they aren't very clear.  As I said, the event was a lot of fun....