Procesión de la Virgin de la Medalla Milagrosa

November 27th is the date the Catholic church dedicates to celebrate the Virgin Mary.  I am not Catholic, and I don't have a good understanding of the holiday.  But as a Christian, I was interested in understanding what this day means to the people in Santiago, who celebrate it more fervently than elsewhere in Panama.   I also wanted to observe the manifestation of their celebration and faith.

I did, and the experience was emotionally powerful,  uplifting, entertaining, spiritually humbling, and a little perplexing.  I am a Lutheran, and the Lutheran church does not practice devotion to saints or to the Virgin Mary.  It was a little hard to wrap my head around this celebratory event.   At the risk of possibly being incorrect in my reporting, I will try to capsulize what I came to understand about the day and the parade. 

Apparently, on November 27, 1830, [Saint] Catherine Laboure, a novitiate to the order of the Sisters of Charity in Paris, France, had a vision of the Virgin Mary, who showed her a medal and instructed the young girl to have other medals forged just like it.  She told Catherine that those who trustingly wore the medal around their necks would receive her abundant blessings.   Two years later, when Catherine's priest and confessor,  Padre Juan Maria Aladel, commissioned the production of 1500 medals,  Europe was in the throes of a cholera epidemic that had extended into Paris.  More than 18,000 people died from the disease according to conservative reports.  The Sisters of Charity began distributing the medals when they arrived, and the medals were subsequently credited with healing the sick who wore them.   People claimed the medal was miraculous, and that's how the name Medalla Milagrosa (Miraculous Medal) came about.  Other miracles are also attributed to the medal, including the conversion to Christianity of a Staussburg banker who had previously been an enemy of the church.    The story goes that a french nobleman gave the banker the medal, which he begrudgingly accepted to avoid appearing rude.  A few days later,  the Virgin Mary appeared at the church Sant’Andrea delle Fratre.  Her appearance sufficed to convert the banker, and later he and his brother funded missions dedicated to spreading Christianity.   My understanding is that Catholics revere the Virgin Mary as the mother of God and as an interventionalist with the ability to bestow blessings and miracles upon those who ask for her help.  She also symbolizes unconditional love and the "sum total of the love of all the mothers in the world and even more".    She is granted November 27th as her special day with the church. 

The city of Santiago, Panama, celebrates with a parade in her honor every fourth Sunday in November.  Small towns and aldeas, churches, neighborhoods, and even some businesses in Santiago and the surrounding areas,  construct floats featuring statues of the virgin Mary.  These floats are then pulled, pushed, or propelled by people on foot several kilometers through the streets and barrios of Santiago.  Each float is attended by many devotees who walk in front of and behind the float, carrying banners and singing songs.   After marching through Santiago, they return to the cathedral, when the floats are parked and admired.  A winning float is designated, but I'm unclear if there is any kind of prize other than the satisfaction of being voted the best float in the procession.    The final float to arrive is the float belonging to the city of Santiago.  It is generally the largest and most elaborated float.   When all the floats and their entourages have returned, the cathedral priest leads the multitude in prayer requesting Mary intervene for everyone and bestow blessings upon them.

At Sunday's procession, there were 252 participating floats.  The procession ended around 4 pm, having started early in the morning.  As people returned from their marches in the sweltering sun, they were met by members of their community who distributed food and drink to refresh them.   As things were winding up, prior to the priest's benediction, it started to rain heavily.   People around me explained,  "It always rains for the benediction.  That's part of the blessing!"



During the priest's benediction, one could have heard a pin drop in downtown Santiago, Panama's 3rd largest city.  All heads were bowed and not a single car horn, child's cry,  stray voice or dog's bark interrupted the silence.   It was truly awesome.  The spiritual energy of the faithful was almost palpable.   I felt myself trembling and was briefly moved to tears.   Would have been embarrassed,  but noticed I wasn't the only one wiping their eyes.   I don't believe in religious medals, nor in the need for someone to intervene on my behalf with God.   But I was definitely moved by the faith & devotion expressed within that huge crowd.    

Shake, Rattle and Roll

I've returned to Boquete.  It was a pleasant 3 hour drive.  As I sat down to start my post on the parade in Santiago, we experienced an earth tremor I would guess was around a 3 on the Richter scale.  No science or equipment to base this on,  just what it felt like from personal experience as a long-time SF Bay Area resident.  If there's a way to check out my guestimate later, I'll do so.  It lasted maybe 20 seconds.  There was a low bang, the house shook and vibrated, and the desk I'm sitting at wobbled.   Because my house is situated in a valley between two volcanoes, I always give things a second thought when the ground shakes.

Addendum:  Five hours after the tremor, I found documentation of it at the University of Panama's geosciences website.  It was a 4.1.  I guess it takes a lot to impress a San Francisco transplant.  Didn't feel all that strong....The epicenter was Volcan, just over the hill (Baru Volcano) from Boquete.

When I returned home today, my neighbor told me yesterday's Independence Day parade here is Boquete was really something to behold.  She said the town was packed so full of people there was barely even standing room, and she said the parade didn't end until 11:30 pm.  She said bands that first marched in Volcan contacted the mayor, asked if they could march in Boquete's parade, and then with his blessing showed up to add to the spectacle.  The bands marching in the evening carried candles, which added to the character and charm. 

A lot happened in Panama yesterday and over the weekend !

Last Leg of Return Trip

Started out from Evanston, Wyoming this morning at 7:30 am.  Reached Utah shortly thereafter and stopped to take a few photos at this rest area.    It was a brisk, clear morning with lovely views.

Reached the California state line around 6:30 pm, and am still unpacking.  It was a long, tiring drive back, but have arrived safe and sound.    Lots of magnificent scenery the entire way...

Second Look at Wyoming



Yesterday I traveled through Iowa and most of Nebraska.  Today I left Nebraska and traveled across Wyoming.  I'm about 10 miles from the state line and will head into Utah, Nevada, and will hopefully finish up in California by late evening.  Wanted to do a little sightseeing, but I've got too many things pending at home and need to get back ASAP.  Another job interview awaits as well.  Wisconsin didn't work out for that.  My nephew got married, though, and I was able to be there for the big event so all is not lost.  Wishing Andy and Tara the very best!

I know Yellowstone National Park is partially in Wyoming, and wish I could have visited.  It will have to wait for another time.  But I drove though parts of Mountain Bow park and snapped a few photos.  There doesn't seem to be a lot here,  but the vast open spaces and ability to see for hundreds of miles is awe inspiring.  Wish my camera could have captured some of the distance views, but alas!

Californians---Try to identify this!

This may seem like such a trivial issue to midwesterners, but I just had to document my astonishment at the building I photographed above.    Most Californians try to stay away from rest stops and rest areas along the state highways.  At best they are questionably clean, cement,  camp-like structures that frequently lack hygiene supplies.  At worst, they are sleazy, dirty, dubiously secure spots to be reckoned with only in the most dire of circumstances.  When they are open, that is to say.

So I was absolutely amazed when I ventured into this one in Iowa today.  (On the first leg of my return to California...)  I was so impressed I took multiple photos while the locals looked at me as though I were some country hick who never got away from the farm.  Only a fellow Californian from the Sacramento area understood what I was doing and why. 

There were complimentary state maps on the walls for travelers to pick up if needed.  They were vending machines with every type of snack and healthy or unhealthy drink a person could want.  Including water with vitamins!  There were public phones, and areas to use a laptop, if one were so inclined.  The bathrooms were spotless, and there was even a separate and easily accessible handicap bathroom off the main hall.  There were picnic areas, and viewing areas, and........sigh!

The lady from Sacramento told me she had visited several rest stops in Iowa, and in Ohio, as well.  "They are all nice, " she told me,  "but they get worse the further west you head."   

I don't get it....

Wisconsin--end of the line for now

Arrived safe and sound on Tuesday evening as planned.  Not much to say at this point.  The drive in from Iowa was green and scenic...I'm relaxing and catching up on much-needed sleep.   Cats survived and seem to like the cooler weather.  More later.

Iowa was really nice....

Cruising through Nebraska

Didn't make it to Lincoln today.  Couldn't fall asleep last night.  At 3:00 am I  finally took a  Lunesta, then didn't wake up til a few minutes shy of check out time.  UGH!  Now I'm 200 miles west of Lincoln and hoping for an early launch tomorrow.  According to Mapquest, there's another 800 miles to go.    The last leg of the journey is tricky and has a million turn-offs. 

Planning to travel all day and night to get there.  Can't take another night in a motel.  I'm driving with two cats.  One is 20 years old.   The vet convinced me his heart couldn't tolerate a plane trip.    Simba's heart has been just fine, but my nerves are frayed.   He's developed a nasty case of cabin fever and is taking it out on me.  It has to end tomorrow or one of us won't survive.  

Still haven't been able to communicate via phone with family.   Would be nice if just one of them had the consideration to answer my emails!   Eveyone wants me to report in, but the effort doesn't seem to be reciprocal.  The national T-Mobile roaming plan I've paid into for 5 years isn't any good out here.  When there's signal, the network doesn't recognize me.   And most of the time there's no signal. 

I'm in another motel where I can't make a  long distance call.   At least that's what I've been told.  Sounds fishy to me.....No rooms with DSL or broadband internet anymore, so the Vonage device I brought is useless as well.   Barb, I guess you'll know I made it when I land on your doorstep.   Don't go to bed too early tomorrow.   I just may drag in at some late hour...

Wyoming---another third world country?

From the moment I entered Wyoming things started getting fumbled.  Don't know if it's the terrain or the technologically-challenged inhabitants of this land....Crossing the border into Evanston, I stopped for gas at the Chevron station that services all the weary travelers along I-80.  Went to two pumps.  The first one didn't work, the second one had a sign across it stating the pumps "on this side" of the station were functioning oddly.  Further instructions directed that one either pay inside first, or wait to see if a characteristic set of beeps sounded,  and then try fueling without benefit of seeing what the pump was doing or saying.  Having now twice parked the car at a pump and gotten out to fill the tank, I climbed back in again and drove to the other side of the gas station to one of the pumps on the "good" side.   I again parked the car, climbed out, and started to insert my gas card for the 3rd time.  There was another small, typewritten note on this pump stating the LED screen didn't work.  I got into the car again, moved it to the last pump, and was fortunately able to start fueling.  But the hose pushed in more air than gas, and wouldn't stay flowing when employing the lazy lever.  I had to hand pump the gas from the hose, which kept shutting off every 10 seconds.    As I was finally finishing up, another car drove up to the pump that had the small sign about the LED screen.  An irritated young man got out,  then quickly crawled back into his car and drove up behind mine.  No words were exchanged, but I felt his pain.

Several miles down the road, at the next small town, I pulled off the exit and got a room for the night.  It had quickly turned dark and I was too sleepy and night blind to take on the unlighted, barren terrain and roadway.  Although the motel boasted internet and cable TV, I learned too late the channels didn't match the channel list, the times and the programs were all off schedule, and there were two CBS stations, but neither showed the standard Sunday night line up.  Go figure.  Tried to use the lodge's phone to make a long distance call to Wisconsin, but it wouldn't work.  When I called the desk to inquire about it,  I was told they had been having problems with their long distance service and it wasn't working at the present time.  The internet service was WiFi, so I couldn't even use my Vonage box or Magic Jack to make the phone call.  Apparently,  broadband internet hasn't hit this town yet.  They do have Cable TV, but not internet.  Sound familiar?  For all intents and purposes I could be in Caldera or La Colorada, Panama with this scenario.   My first attempt to make the call was with my cell phone, but there was no network signal, either.   I don't ever want to hear another U.S. midwesterner in Boquete make derogatory remarks about the quality of Panamanian services!

Utah

Other than the technological challenges, the trip has gone well.  On cruise control at 75 mph the entire way.  Wide open spaces stretched for hundreds of miles and offered time to contemplate and relax while drifting along.  Was not impressed with the Great Salt Lake, in Utah.  It stank much worse than a poorly maintained seaside marina, and the view reminded me of low tide in Casco Viejo.  Didn't take many photos, but see for yourself.  Be glad you are being spared the smell. 

Hoping to make it as far as Lincoln, Nebraska tomorrow.  I've been pushing it to get to my destination ASAP, but on the way back I'm hoping to be able to sightsee a little more.   Can't say I miss the congested freeways and crowded towns of the Bay Area.  I imagine I'll be putting all that back on as I get closer to home. 

High Desert Harmony

Although I love the lush, tropical forests of the Chiriqui highlands in Panama, I'm also drawn to the arid, sparse, high deserts in the western United States.  There's something about the vast, harshly serene, windswept scenery that soothes the soul and puts a person in awe of our Creator. 

The pictures below were taken en route to Winnemucca, Nevada.  For me, they are reminiscent of Arizona, however the scale is so much grander. 

Tomorrow I should pass through Salt Lake City, Utah and into Wyoming.  Haven't been that way since early childhood and remember nothing. Hopefully there will be photo opportunities for posting!  Two thousand miles still to go....

Pineapple in Bloom and the Sky is Falling

I was told it takes two years for a pineapple plant to reach fruition.  It must have been 18 months or more since I stuck the top of a pineapple into the ground in the backyard and watched it grow.  I was greeted with a wonderful surprise when I walked out to check it this weekend.  Still a very tiny fruit, but WOW!  It actually worked!   I am thrilled to see it !  Such a nice diversion from all the stress I've been experiencing for the last week. 

After spending the weekend in Costa Rica to renew my visa,  I returned  to learn I  was no longer employed.   The recession is hitting hard everywhere, and apparently I didn't have immunity.  It was short notice, with a microscopic severence, and my health insurance ends in 2 wks.  I'm madly scrambling to figure out how my son and I are going to survive.  He's having to forfeit plans to attend college this September and fight like hell to compete for whatever job he can in this environment of record high unemployment.    I, aged 61, with  ten months from retirement,   am also trying to compete in a tough job market.    Heading back to California to re-engineer life plans.  Never a dull moment!

Depending on how things proceed, it may be a while before I post another blog entry.   Hoping for the best, and doing everything in my power to make this life changing situation eventful and productive.  Wishing everyone economic stability and job satisfaction ! 

Boquete's Blight

They're paving paradise.  And it's now reached the entrada.  Take a long hard look... and sigh.

An Evening with Friends in Santiago

Spent two days in Santiago with a friend who was celebrating her birthday last Friday night.   It was a small, intimate gathering of Panamanian professionals associated with the university in Santiago.    We were entertained by two accomplished musicians who were instructors there, --a guitarist and a violinist.  They played traditional Panamanian folk songs, which developed into a great sing and dance-a-long.  The percussionists were incidental musicians who came with their wives or girlfriends and later joined in.   The violinist has a radio show on Saturday mornings, which he dedicated to my friend for her birthday.   It was a thoroughly enjoyable evening---not half as sedate as it appears!



Children's Day

This Sunday is Children's Day in Panama.  I learned the holiday used to take place in November, but was recently changed to July 17th,  because there were already a lot of holidays in November, and July didn't have so many....Panamanian's are so practical when it comes to partying !!

Yesterday, Saturday afternoon,  I went to a child's birthday in La Colorada, a small town about 15 minutes outside Santiago.   There are two significant celebratory events in a Panamanian child's life--their first birthday,  and the 15th  birthday for girls or the 18th for boys.   This party was a first birthday party.   It was a very special event.  Half the town was there, a hall was rented, a sound system installed, and snacks, candy, toys, ice cream, cake and gifts galore were handed out for all the attendees.  Just about the time I thought things were wrapping up and it would be time to go, out came huge pots of food and we were all served full dinners.   The party lasted about 8 hours total and we arrived back in Santiago tired and ready to crash for the evening. 

The deafening noise didn't  record on the videos below, but I think these silent movies reflect the energy and good times, just the same. 

Day Hike in Caldera and then indigestion @ Papa Ricco's

A friend and I took a short day trip to Portrerillos and Caldera.  Ever since making that lost jaunt through the Caldera countryside several months ago,  I get frequent urges to go back, sit on the rocks, decompress, and contemplate.  That's how the day started out , and the photos below can illustrate the zen-like mood I had melded into by the time we headed back to Alto Boquete. 

By the time we got back into town, both of us were hungry and my friend was craving pizza.  So we stopped off at Papa Ricco's, close to my house.   Ricco was in rare form today and turned what should have been a pleasant dining experience into a gut wrenching, ulcer clutching, final patronage visit. 

The two of us arrived cheerful, mellow, friendly and chatty. The owner glared back at us from his kitchen. He asked a few unrelated questions about my friend's property, which was up for sale.  Unlike most pizza places, there were no hot pizzas in the oven, and no sliced pizza for purchase by in the warming racks.   My friend ordered pizza to go to take to her family, and we both ordered lasagna  served at the restaurant to whet our hearty appetites while the pizza baked.  We waited for a long time, and finished our sodas without sight of the pasta meals, nor salad or bread.  We were both beginning to tap our feet and wonder how much longer the food would take.  Finally, at my friend's urging, I got up and walked back to the order area to timidly ask precisely that.   Instead of a reassuring answer, I got a very aggressive, unpleasant, screaming, and inappropriate tirade from  the cook.   I was so upset and felt so put-down by some of his remarks that I actually wanted to leave immediately, without the meals we ordered.  My friend, having not heard his tirade from the next room, wanted to stay and get the pizza she ordered to go.  We stayed, but I did let Ricco know when he brought the food, that I felt his attitude & behavior were inconsistent with the situtation that prompted it, and that he made me feel upset enough to want to leave.  I spoke softly, but he again screamed at me,  this time with others present,   "Well just leave, then,  I don't give a damn!"    I stood up to go, but then considered my friend might get stuck with the entire bill.  I fought the urge and calmly repeated to him that asking how much longer the dish required to cook was not justification for being given sarcastic remarks about ""Shut up or eat it cold" nor being told he didn't give a damn if we stayed or left.  He eventually apologized, and I remained for my friend's benefit. The lasagna was overcooked and dry, and so were the garlic rolls.   I don't know if I will ever return.    Ricco is Boquete's  version of the  "Soup Nazi" characterized in Seinfeld.    If the food were good enough, as Seinfeld portrays with the show's character,  it might be different.  But in my mind it isn't the case and Ricco's cooking doesn't cancel out his caustic nature .  I've heard other people relate similar experiences with Ricco, but this was a first for me.  I wish him well with his temper.  Whew!    Go forewarned and speak at your own risk!